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Was it the SS exhaust I left on the red car Terry?

As chip says, a bit hard to prove..... But I'd say the contact in the other bores is more than likely consequential damage from dropping the valve in the first place, quite a common problem for valves to snap on these engines. Especially if its been revved hard when cold.

In tank fuel pressure regulator at fault? Or coolant temp sender?

Father and son.

Ah right Mr Mitchell's 205?

Oil from the yellow Renault 5?

No worries Rich, hope you get all the other bits sorted out you've paid for and not received....

Nice one! Was watching the times on TSL, you guys were shifting!!

No, not really. Hardest job is driving out the roll pin that holds the 5th gear selector fork on. (there is a special tool that helps remove the hub from the syncro though).

Ha! ha! (Simpsons style).

Yep, has been a while....! All the best of luck to you guys. Miss the 'orrible lot! (And mums lemon cake). It would be good to catch up soon.

Jack! Dads R5 all sorted?

Yeah, I'll be over to do gears in situ, no worries mate.;)

I've seen this quite a few times, mostly on remanufactured calipers. You can buy the socket from sealey, it's not too expensive. I have one in a set, if you are close to tunbridge wells in Kent, you could borrow it? Ah, ignore me.... Just seen you've bought one.

How is it being corner weighted? With an old Skool lever arm single pressure/strain guage? (Remove the arb link). Or 4 platforms and a scales computer? (Leave arb connected)

It depends on if its a multi use car, as in different series/groups or multi drivers, where turnaround means running in a different time bracket. Or just because it's using a fuel cell and this filler neck is the only option for filling it...... One hole let's fuel in while the other hole lets...

Make sure the car is on level ground, undo the wing nut plug on the front of the gearbox, use an Allen key to determine the level of the gearbox. Jobs a good-un!

Bent pistons...?

Really and and truly there's only one carb jet to be sorted on the rollers and that's the fuelling set.....but I'd agree that the manifold can be a major factor. Bikes of that era rarely went out of tune and revved to 12/13,000 rpm. The body of the carb can easily flow twice it's designed...

Sure, but your inbox is full I think.

If you were after a set of bike carbs to bolt straight on, jetted to a cammed F7R, give me a shout, also have a new/unused mega jolt and loom in a box.

I recently built a Renault 5 gtt, replaced the C1J engine with an F7P and r1 carbs on a bogg brothers inlet manifold. That went pretty well too, and passed its mots with no probs....

I have bike carbs on my mk1 clio and its passed all its mots, and it goes like s**t off a stick, it used the original ecu and simplified loom. Averages 56 sec laps of brands hatch with road tyres.

Make sure there isn't any broken bits of engine in the old inlets if you swap them over.....easier to take engine and box out at the same time.

Hmmm, £30 or free..... If I had spare time and skills/equipment I'd make my own tools all the time!

I think the AST bends more than cast iron.....:eek: Best of luck with the rebuild, I hate seeing bent and broken racecars.

Bloody hell thats a bit different! Probably the only car you wipe your feet when you get out looking at the first pics. Are the electrics all ok with that amount of water it had inside?

No worries, best of luck!

If you wanted a free rolling shell give me a shout mate, need to get you back out there ASAP!

Bloody bell dinger! Glad you are all ok.