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I definitely will do 😁 pm me a price bud, cheers man

So I slapped in some 172 hoses and piped it all to a crusty old 172 rad so I could see what would and wouldn't work. Starting to get tight in there now though. Ran it up for a good 30min but the temp wouldn't get above 86 degrees, would ge there then drop to high 70s and just cycle. I didn't...

thats the neighbours. not moved in 11 months

Engage super pikey mode, but in reality if it works........... take one rear dog mount and give it a slight curve to fit what you need. Tbh after doing it I cant actually see a problem with it. Only tweaked it over about 1.5inch. Topped up the oil, connected the loom and ecu up and then.....a...

Cheers 👍🏻 half the fun is figuring what can be made to fit, and renault are really good for having interchangeable parts. Also raiding the parts bin keeps the price really low and makes it a fun budget build 😀

OK think its sussed just need to double check everything actually fits as its just an idea at the moment. I need a longer inner shaft and shorter outer to keep the same overall length. The clio 3 inner defo looks longer. I measure that I have a 52mm longer inner and shorter outer. The 172/182...

not sure, I though 197 purely for having the f4r block and I'm assuming same position support bearing. looking pictures the inner is definitely longer and will probably suit itll be the outer that causes the issue. I wonder if the 172 outer is shorter than what I have and I could maybe make a...

I think I can use a clio 3/197 half shaft and I think I will need to shorten the out side part of the shaft to suit the narrower car.... anyone able to measure an inner shaft length from the edge of the block (gearbox mounting face) to the inside edge of the bearing please?

The 2.75 inch miltek downpipe only f**king fits! has clearance and space to wrap it, getting it in and out is tight as a nuns chuff though. One driveshaft in perfectly the other side has the support bearing in the wrong place. Not sure how to sort that yet.... Will do some investigation. Shift...

Found some energy today so got the sump on, gearbox on and starter on and loomed up. Swung the crane out and got it back in the hole and loosely on its mounts. Next I'll get everything I can bolted up and see if it fits correctly, so shifter cables and driveshafts and ill look at the dogbone...

No hanging about! cant wait to see this taken further now. F4r on itbs would make all the right noises in this thing 👍🏻 looking forward to the updates

If your actuator is already taking its feed from the turbo outlet its already at the lowest pressure point it can take it from, moving it further from the turbo will only increase overall boost pressure to the engine. So you are into the realms of swapping out the actuator for a lower rated one...

If 10psi seems to be your base value you may have to change the actuator or change where you take a reference from to make it see it differently. So the 10psi the actuator sees is taken from a pressure reference point. Usually from the inlet manifold. To see 10psi at the inlet the turbo might...

ideally you set an actuator as loose or at the lowest possible pressure you can run without it effecting spool up time and then use a controller/bleed valve to go up from there.

look for a dawes device type manual controller for a cheap and cheerful way to help with spool, work way better than a bleed type valve as they tend not send any boost pressure to the actuator until the set level is reached thus getting rid of the creeping open so give you a bit more low down...

I'd keep in contact and hope they release it then pillage it for every tasty part, has ast top mounts on there too

thats such an awesome update and a great step to get to along the way. can't wait to see some road test videos 👍🏻

Cheers (y) probably a while off yet but if its out and rolling by the summer ill be happy

A good friend, well 2 sorted me out on a new fuel pump today and an Oil cooler for the Twingo. I was gifted 3 spare pumps from his workshop .Checked them over and part numbers to get flow rates. 1st was a denso r35 gtr pump 145lph, 2nd a unisia jecs a42h24 which comes in at 190lph and 3rd a...

my laguna f4rt one was 42mm same as the twingo gt aswell. i was wondering if it was possibly smaller than the normal meg one after you said 56mm. Parts number was the same between the lag and meg though... yeah never seen the point in increasing the size on a clio. has anyone ever actually...

Finished up the brake lines this eve, I HATE working with copper lines but they will do the job. Had to borrow the kit, must be 15 years since I've had to touch a flaring tool as I usually get someone else to do a neater job of running lines in for me. Slipped on some heat sleeving to maybe help...

pretty sure most pass 300+ still on the stock item? 42mm isnt it? The old Renault 5 gt turbo will make 220+ bhp on a 25mm throttle lol

only just got round to getting pics but gt shafts next to the 172 shafts I have here. GT one have the twisted spline ends. Not worried about them tbh.

oooo found more, now i want another

g40 runs a gladder supercharger though so different. Most clios run a Rotrex, very different in design. (mine did break though lol) but in terms of strain on the rest of the vehicle, heat management (no big turbo close to the bulkhead, brake lines and steering rack) its a better bet, just alot...

I built mine probably 10 years ago so so excuse the potato camera. It was 240bhp to start with then increased to 280bhp later on with a larger air restrictor on a stock 100k ph1 engine and clutch. Omex 600 ecu with meg 225 injectors.

On a second note there's less issues with heat on a sc car, no boiling brake fluid and no turbo to keep coming loose

I built a SC one many years back and owned a turbo one also, Supercharger hands down for delivery on the track, just like driving a big power NA engine with constant increase in power right to the rev limiter

Cracked on with the belts today. Was a bit of a pain doing the bottom pulley up with an engine loose on the floor and ended up leaning it against the work bench and putting a scaffold pole on the bar to get my 95 degree tightening. All went well though and everything seems to line up nicely when...

the thread you linked was clio to clio not megane to clio like you are trying you muppet. physically bolting it in is easy, wiring the meg loom and ecu into a clio with clio uch or meg uch will be a ball ache and hasn't been done in anything I can see you have linked? so I really don't know...