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Can't help with the B14's specifically but these are my settings on cooksports, standard cup shocks, PMS solid top mounts and eibach camber bolts. I can't see why the B14's would be so much less adjustable.

Did he maybe mean an additional 1.1 over stock? I'm running over 2 degrees negative with just camber bolts.

It's a really crap mounting system, tons of vibration and thermal expansion/contraction with a fairly hefty lump of metal hanging off some studs. Eventually they shear. I've just removed mine.

Shock top mounts shot? Broken spring? Leaking steering rack/low PAS fluid? Is the car lowered as if it's been massively dropped it could be bump steer. If you bounce test the car can you track the knocking noise down to one corner? Have you had the geometry checked? I know you said it's been...

Oil loss shouldn't affect the A/C operation though? What engine does it have? Could be as simple as an airlock in the cooling system causing overheating if the rad's not been replaced properly.

I've just gone the other way, I.e. From standard to adding camber, and the car is noticeably more of a handful on the road, much keener to tram line and follow camber changes. Doesn't bother me as it's more for track use but I'd say going back to standard will help as long as nothing else is...

I would grab one of these: http://www.serversdirect.co.uk/Hewlett_Packard_HP_ProLiant_MicroServer_Gen8_G1610T_1P_2GB-U_B120i_NHP_SATA_712317-421/version.asp They're a lot more versatile than a NAS box and absolutely dirt cheap with the current cashback deals - under £100. The only downside is...

You could stick with PAYG and get 500mb, 100 mins and 3000 texts for 30 days via a £10 top up on three? Or unlimited data, 300 mins, 3000 texts for £15. Or giffgaff do 500 mins, unlimited texts and 3Gb data for £12. If you're definitely after a new contract check out Quidco, there are often...

@alistairolsen have you tried going via the forums? Unfortunately all the line installs, site visits to fix issues etc are in the hands of BT as with any ISP who uses their infrastructure. Their engineers are a total frigging lottery, I have long and painful professional experience of that :(...

Probably a bit OTT, just wanted to prevent it knocking around too much.

Standard discs and DS2500's on the front, standard discs and pads on the back. I didn't have any issues with brake fade last time out at Combe, but I wasn't hitting them particularly hard. Thruxton next which has at least one very big stop so I thought I'd best have a crack at the cooling.

Duplicate post, for some random reason ;)

This thing is bloody hilarious! Best thing about it is at smaller throttle openings it makes no difference at all, but put your foot down and it absolutely howls. I've been enjoying letting my inner chav out to play on local roads this afternoon. :smile: My install. Sorry to all you engine bay...

Cheers. I got rid of it but left the plug out of the solenoid, I'll see if it throws any codes. Bloody good afternoon's work there! All the crap I stripped out of the car: The wheel arch liners - spot the difference between the knackered passenger side and the OK driver's side? :)...

Ok, so I've ditched the passenger wheel arch liner because it was destroyed already, fog lights gone,horn relocated, fatty's induction kit fitted, all the induction pipe work including the solenoid gone, modified the drivers side wheel arch, but I'm stuck. Carbon canister - can I just whip it...

I suppose that's the other question, without deflector plates and some ducting would removing the fogs and modifying the arch liners for more airflow actually make a blind bit of difference?

I've had a search but can't find anything useful. I'm sure I remember reading somewhere that stripping the arch liners out exposed an engine pulley so could be a bit dodgy but I can't find anything to back that up. I'm taking the fog lights out today and was thinking of taking the arch liners...

It'd be the cracks that worried me more than the thickness.

Could also be a knackered shock. Problem is it could be tons of things but there's a list to start with ;)

What are your toe and camber settings? Is the car lowered as if it's had a big drop this could be bump steer. What tyres are you running and are they the same on both sides of the axle? Any play in the wheels, e.g. Worn bearings?

Don't know about settings, but PMS do a bump steer kit which isn't too expensive

Came to about £240 for the lot - both wishbones with balljoints and powerflex polybushes for the rear beam and front ARB. Definitely worth shopping around as prices seem quite variable.

For what it's worth I've just done a suspension refresh on mine, OE shocks, Cooksport springs, new OE wishbones and I polybushed the front ARB bushes and the rear beam bushes. Camber bolts on the front. Already had the whiteline ARB fitted. I know I could go faster on track with a stiffer...

Yes you'll need shims if you want more rear camber, but you might not. It's a very individual thing, you might find you are happy with the rear grip you've got already. The important thing is that the geo is right, I'd sort the shocks out, fit the camber bolts, get the ARB on and then get it...

My finger accidentally slipped on the Buy It Now button, twice. So mine is on the way too :)

Reduces rear body roll and understeer. Great mod. Not 100% sure it's a whiteline but the effect is the same. http://ears.co.uk/motorsport/anti-roll-bars/4031-whiteline-brr10z-anti-roll-bar-18mm-clio.html

It was a bloody good day :)

Probably just a cockup. You could contact MID and discuss it with them, you may find your insurer just hasn't updated the database yet.

Me too, they're a bit different, should certainly give the brakes room to breathe too. Tyre fitters messed up the balancing though, hideous vibration at over 50. Give them their due, when I took it back they rebalanced them for free without a murmur and it's all good now.

Yes to both :)