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Yeah, code read is the next step. Where are you?

That looks pretty smart with the carbon finish on it to be fair. Would be interesting to see it fitted, would be a bit worried about sweaty palms though!

I'd never heard of those, for £40 that's got to be worth a punt, thanks.

I don't, but my mechanic does, which is always useful!

Amen :D So the last bits to buy were the Fatty's induction kit, which is just awesome value for money, and the RSTuner remap. I also decided I wanted to strip out a little bit of weight and improve the brake cooling, not because I'd had a problem since the DS2500's went on but just because...

I may have got a touch carried away. New front and rear shocks, wishbones, DS2500 pads, CookSport springs, PMS solid top mounts and a strut brace (still not entirely sure why, other than I love a good strut brace), camber bolts, polybushes for the ARB, rear beam and rear shock mounts. Enough...

I decided to pick myself up a cheap set of 15" wheels. I made a total mis-step and bought a set which were the wrong width to take any decent track tyres and which probably wouldn't even have fitted that well, so got shut of them pretty quickly. Duh. Problem was the upgrade bug was biting and I...

.... got the car back from the mechanic with a reasonably clean bill of health. New HT leads, new plugs, new brake fluid, the exhaust was blowing because it had been shoddily fitted originally and the idle problems were due to a bad injector. I also had the spacers from under the driver's seat...

I'm on call this weekend so stuck at home, and it's raining so I can't go and tinker with the cars. I thought it was as good a time as any to put a "project so far" thread together as it's already gone way, way beyond what I thought would happen with it. Also I made some pretty classic mis-steps...

Love them. I will own one at some point, if you don't regularly need to carry lots of people and/or stuff they're a proper do-it-all car. Great choice.

Thanks, I'll have a play with it tomorrow. Knackered now ;)

Just put the white line onto the hard setting, bit concerned about how the bush is sitting. The other side is flat but this side is on the c**k - should I try to correct it or is this just how they sit on hard? I'm at thruxton so could do with a quick answer ;) Cheers, John

Where are you seeing that? To get your unlock code you just send the key from the "about" box in RSTuner by email and they send you back the unlock code. If you've send them a screenshot of the ECU information too then you'll also be sent the map you want.

Don't worry about it, it's a piece of piss. When you email the unlock code and vin info over to henk he'll send you the files you need. Follow the instructions and job done. Make sure to do the backups first and follow the pc setup instructions - you don't want the laptop going into power...

The handbook says it's fine to run on 95 RON, so it's fine to run on 95 RON. If there was the slightest chance of there being a problem the handbook wouldn't say it was ok.

It says open circuit so most likely either the wiring has failed or the electrical connector to the canister isn't plugged in. It won't affect anything, it's just a pollution control thing.

Tim is the man for that stuff, no doubt about that. :)

Ive heard good things about this software: http://www.videohelp.com/software/Video-Repair-Tool That said, depending on the nature of the corruption it's entirely possible the file is not recoverable. Will the file open at all? If it plays but the image is just a garbled mess then it's more...

Fair play, I think it would always bug me if I was taking one to that sort of power level but I'm not very up to date on the latest thinking in tuning the 2.5T engine. I love a Volvo sleeper, I've had a few tuned T5 ones over the years and they are great fun in an "I really shouldn't be able to...

What about getting the liners shimmed, is that part of the budget? Nice car :)

I'd go for the quick release hub TBH, gives you a lot more options in future and the gloss finish on that wheel won't age well IMO.

Last time I saw one of those it was run by the sales team at an artificial turf company - not a bad idea as it goes ;)

It wasn't putting the EML on, but it was throwing a code that the solenoid wasn't operating. Can't say I've noticed any difference in the car, but less fault codes is always good ;)

Ref the solenoid for the carbon canister, the car was repeatedly throwing a fault code with the electrical plug removed from the solenoid. With it back in there have been no more fault codes.

Uh, have we met? :D

Thanks all, I did wonder if it was a drag thing. I do quite like the look but not sure I want to start butchering the rear bumper. Something to consider.

I've seen a few track day Clios now with holes drilled in the back bumper, usually in the centre of the bumper in a row of five or six, diameter probably about an inch and a half to two inches. Why do people do this? I have a drill, and a long boring Sunday ahead of me, idle hands and all that...

You've downloaded the wrong version of the map. Have a look here: http://www.fastchip.nl/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22&Itemid=100020 The section you want is: Q: Where can I find the right engine calibration file

Flashing usually means a misfire, so get a code reader on it and find out if it's just one cylinder. If so you can trace it from there by swapping plugs, injectors and HT leads and see which one of those the fault follows. If it's a general/multiple cylinder misfire then usually knackered coil...

If the fuel trims go too far out of whack it should light up the engine warning light. If you still have the RStuner you can check the long term fuel trims and see if the car is trying to compensate for lean running by adding more fuel.