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I think cruise is simply a part of the ECU - if it's programmed it will work, if not it wont. That's how it was kind of explained to me from Henk when I had one of his RS Tuners.
TC/SC does keep standard management as far as I know.
Have you recently bought the car?
In my opinion it's likely that someone (the previous owner) might have stuck tape over the light(s) as a cheap fix. Seen this done so many times.
Which other light(s) don't illuminate?
Dash top is 13 screws. Firstly remove both A pillars. Remove both dash...
The speedo dials (If that's what you're referring to) are LED's so there are no 'bulbs' to change.
In answer to your question - yes the dash top has to come off to remove the cluster.
A good RB is hard to come by, we don't sell them you see ;)
In all seriousness - I looked for months when searching out my RB and when I found the one I wanted I secured the sale with a deposit over the phone. I was offered some right dogs for considerably less than I paid for mine, but IMO...