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it depends on the component setup some of the cheaper aftermarket sets have just a x-over (HPF) for the tweeter
it's no problem driving the full range into the door speaker but it would ruin a tweeter
you'd have to see what the x-over is like but looking at the speakers it is just for the tweeter
so it should be a case of just connecting the speakers to the wires that are there and away you go
i'm guessing the connectors have already been cut off due to what you have said in the other thread
i'd just install the jbl's in the front and disconnect the rears and see how that goes
it wouldn't run if you didn't already have some sort of earth so it won't see all the current
the big 3. is the cable from alt to batt +, from chassis to batt - and from chassis to engine iirc
i found just upgrading the chassis to batt - was enough to sort out most of the volt drop i was...
the noise comes from the alternator but should be adsorbed by the battery
so that i why it is a dodgy earth/ground somewhere
if you have a multi meter set it up for current and start the car and put the amp on(loud enough so you can just hear it) til the noise occurs (try to turn everything...
i've got ubuntu on mine running trasmission and samba with 5 drives and a graphics card and pulls about 70w max (average about 35w) it only has a 150w psu
from a price point of view it's better than the synology for a 4 bay
it will be a bad earth somewhere i'd check all earths in the engine bay first (have you upgraded the one from chassis to battery as that is the first to upgrade)
yeah impeadance is quoted as this includes the inductive and capactive nature of the load.
with the head unit not having a dc/dc power supply the lower the impeadance the higher the output
also if you know anything you would know that amplifiers distortion is usually at it's lowest right...