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this is where my money would be

powerstation isn't that far been there on a RR day from here before

sounds like the alternator to me not charging the battery the battery is only there to start the car and stabilise the voltage in the car you need to start it and check the voltage it should be around 14v

i suppose the 80"+ sets are ok if you live in the Cs mansion lol

how big was it? most of the current 4k sets are just 4 42" 1080p sets stitched together i think a nice 50" 4k set would look sweet

where is the other sub connected? i'd connect both rca's to the white ones on the amp (think it says BTL in brakets) which is short for bridge tied load then connect a sub on either side also marked BTL as shown by l33th3tree set the filters to LPF and the dial screw so it's at about where...

yeah the metal cage needs to fitted into the dash first. i had to reach up from the passenger footwell a pull the wires as i fed the unit in on my clio

you might need a y adapter for the rca cables as you will want to bridge the output to give you 2 bridged outputs also you never want to apply anything more than about 1.5v dc (i.e an AA cell) to a speaker as you can push them way past their Xmax is the an option on the head unit to switch off...

spotted trying to u turn in st dials car park lol

i wouldn't go for a motor cycle battery as it might not have the cranking amps to start a car charging is not an issue

happy days, i thought the new polo used the 5x112 fitment nice forge FMIC you got there best mod i've made to mine

are they 17 inch?

you wouldn't but it can be done quite easily with your setup why would you fit a kill switch on the -ve !?

it's more the position i have a problem with if you could get 6x9 comps in the front then that would be epic

i'd say the box has much greater influence on sound. sealed gives tight bass vented gives more boomy bass bandpass gives a bit of both

what do you want ? if you want bass then get a sub if not then get a sub

if you are finding the light to be poor you might want to run a lower K HID lamp as blue light is not that good a lighting things up so i'd opt for 4300K over 6000K

you know there is a reason why everything is fused on the +ve and everything is switched on the +ve aswell i wouldn't like to see what happens if you disconnect the -ve with the engine running

why is the kill switch on the negative side:S

but you are asking a speaker to do every thing and it is going fail at something and that will be sound quality. not all cones are made from polymer at all (i had a pair of subs made of metal) yeah subs are good at bass as that is what they are designed for and will reproduce low frequencies...

a rubber roll yes but the cones are not made from rubber are they? yeah might be able to play down 35Hz but it'll ruin the rest of the sound quality (also the 35Hz would be @ something like -12dB)

i'm lost as to where to start with this tbh rubber cones? bet they sound like they are under water. an ideal cone would be something as rigid as possible while being light. "average" human hearing range is 20Hz - 20kHz but asking a component to play below about 60Hz is mental

imho i'd go for them and a ktp-445 and see what it's like i run my alpine head unit + ktp-445 on the oem speakers in my polo and can't turn it up above 20 and feel no need for a sub (within reason)

i'd highly recommend the KTP-445 (not the KTP-455U as you have an alipne hu) i forget just how loud it is sometimes when pulling into car parks and stuff :o

oh yeah 230BHP in a polo is fun

it might be the tweeter. the design and construction will offer a difference in sound if you was to move them i'd say move them to the a-pillars

glad to see xenons have come back on this gti. front number plates ruin every car made but i'd leave it with the new plate

well it looks like i've been able to swap my fifa day one pre-order to a forza day one

FFS i would of gone for forza over fifa

peak and max figures are pointless. RMS is the only figure to take note of