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or just get one of those leads from above an plug it into an mp3 player

so you have altered the settings and still nothing?

yeah it's not going to work is it unless you space it right at the emitter so it's going to have to be bigger for that

why two tubes? so your looking for something with a bore of about 10mm i'd suggest some microbore copper pipe and a pipe bender

little more info would be a massive help

i had a 100 cell cat on my 1.6 clio and it did bring up the engine light but that was it it didn't go into limp mode at all so just drove it with on

you need to set it to lpf (low pass filter) then point the lpf knob to the a of super bass set super bass to 0 turn the gain down to min then plug it all in play some music at the level where it starts to sound bad then knock it back (e.g sounds bad at 24 then set it to 22) turn off any...

this may sound stupid but have you got the hpf enabled on the amp? also is the gain set too low ?

yet this thread still has the smell of apple geek:S

yeah. how did you do the rest of the speedo without taking them off? i suggest prising them off with a fork but put something under it to stop it from scratching

don't worry about it trust me the cable for the hu is fused @ 10A at the fuse box if the fuse operates then change the wiring but until then it's not a problem

easy to get behind the screen just need to be careful

not what i'd use but hey ho.

they still trying to work out what marketing bullshit words to use for the 5?

not quite as you need to know the "resistance" of the sub take this amp it is a 300wRMS but only into 1 ohm and only 175wRMS into 4 ohms where as this amp into 4 ohms is 350wRMS

they are both ratings of the sub/amp/speaker one is a bunch of marketing lies and the other is a true rating (RMS) you can only match RMS ratings as other ratings are made up in different ways by different companys

is that a 1000w Peak or RMS? as that makes a hell of a difference. rule of thumb is you get an amp with more power than the rating of the speaker

no in a word lol you need to match them same as power ratings. bridging 2 channels can normally only run a 4 ohm sub or higher. where as alot of mono amps will run 1 ohm subs but the higher the resistance the less power you get as the voltage doesn't change although this doesnt apply to amps...

it's the "resistance" the speaker shows the amp too low a "resistance" and there is a chance you'll cook the amp

ahh right well you should be all right with that amp as long as you can wire the sub to show the amp 4 ohms

don't worry about interference as it doesn't really exist run everything under the trim on the passenger side of the car as that is the side where it's best to get from under the bonnet to inside the car

900w RMS is a big ask from a class ab amp imho i'd go for a 2 channel and a mono amp what sub have you got?

there are so many things wrong with that "sub" 100w RMS is nothing a 1" voice coil is tiny its Xmech may be 30mm but its Xmax is only 9mm which is the safe limit and a lot less than most subs using XXX is a blatent rip off of the RE Audio XXX (which is a proper sub)

i used to use the middle seat belt bolt on my amp worked fine for years not saying its right it just what i used in my clio

the size of that sub i doubt it's got a step up psu circuit so that is a 4 ohm load on 14 volts = 3.5 amps x 5 = 17 amps at the very max take into account that it is a sine wave so 17 * 0.707 iirc = 12A ish if you played a 50hz tone @ 0dB

they are led's just in a smd package rather than say a basic 5mm package this is where i got mine from when i did my dials

if you got a multi meter with a current setting 99.9% have it the way to find if it is a bad earth put the multi meter on current dc and make sure probe are in the right holes switch head unit and amp on but turn the volume down so you can just hear it then stick one probe on the - terminal...

a more sensible idea joking aside how about this and this

they know that it doesn't take much power and thats why they fitted that connector an other sub/amp combo would be a big no no as i said in a previous post if the fuse operates in the car fuse box for the head unit you'll have to take the supply to the battery

lol not with a 10A fuse built in to the sub wiring