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yeah just make sure the ground is connected first and you'll be fine

plug it into that loose red one

have you got a photo of the loom ? mainly showing the red and yellow wires ?

is there a yellow on the wiring loom aswell? it's the loom you need to look at not the head unit as that is why there is that connector on it all ready

have a look on the wiring loom on the back of the head unit to car wiring i reckon there is a place to plug the yellow in there but if the fuse operates in the car fuse box you'll need to find alternative power supply

but what output would you get from the sub? not alot so people who don't really know how to set up Car audio will whack the gain up to get more out of the amp

no you'll just cook the voice coil by having the amp clipping it's tits off the amp should always have a higher output than the speakers rating ideally at leat 20% more

i had some tri-rated 25mm2 fused at 120A in my car but that was it's limit 100A is fine tbh but if it pops when you start the car you really should up-rate the cable

as a rule of thumb 25mm2 is 4 awg and shouldn't be fused much above 100A so might not work to relocate your battery i still dont like the way they use awg in this country for car audio

atari 2600 sega game gear sega megadrive sega dreamcast xbox xbox 360 x5 i dont think any thing with a keyboard can be classed as a console

you'd have to check the tv as i know my samsung tv uses 3.5 mm on the tv for vga input

oh yeah dont get me wrong it is way over priced but he said it had to be from littlewoods

for the 800 i'd go for this i don't think i'd bother with the hassle of the old tv unless it was for something silly like £20

your not going to get white light from a argon filled lamp no matter how much blue paint they put on them (side by side with an oem lamp might show the difference) white leds are the only way to get a HID colour match and i doubt you would get pulled for them with the amount of cars with DRL

how about something like this? plug it into your tv via hdmi and also acts as a nas drive

cheers adam had a quick look through that and disabled the IP flood detection has helped a lot

i was the same tbh but it was free for me so i thought it couldn't be that bad lol looks like i'll have to search for a temp measure until the firmware is released

had it about 3 weeks i've rebooted it a few times but it seems fine now at getting on the net it just seems to struggle at doing more than one thing at a time (streaming to music pc while the xbox is on etc)

i've got a VM super hub and it seems to be dog s**t at routing before i had just a VM cable modem and a dlink router which worked fine so is there a way of setting them up so that the super hub just works as a modem and then plug the dlink router into it so that does the routing and wifi?

well the new one i'm building is going to smaller than a shoe box so not exactly behemoth lol

how about building a nas pc? mine is just a celeron based pc with ubuntu pulls about 70 watts streaming a 1080p video (3 hard drives) although i'm looking to change to atom based and losing a hard drive to lower it to about 50 watts tops

i had a my book world before and it was dog slow (1Tb version) 5Mb/s was about it's max so build my own nas with the hard drive out of it and got nearly 50Mb/s

anyone used them? they ok? i'm looking to get an RE sub off them.

or this for the same price sealed box all day long for sq as it does give a more linear output

think they have moved the throttle to 10GB in the peak time and then you drop to 7.5mb on 30mb

new alpine head unit with one of these it's an amp but is pre wired to run between your car and head unit

stick with alpine for a head unit imho comps and amp there is a whole lot more choice for that

not really as the dipped should stay on with the full beam but as said above get some H1 osram nightbreaker+ for the fulls

you want to go slightly higher with the power of the amp.

just upgraded mine for free :approve: so much for the first guy saying it's going to cost an extra £7.50 p/m