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Glad you got sorted

Ph1's ran a fuel pressure regulator there so at a guess the pipe would have been vacuum related, whereas ph2's don't hence the missing pipe/regulator

Could be throttle body, or a sensor playing up, possibly even lambda sensor on its way out From my experiences it'll work out cheaper to have a diagnostic check done first rather than guessing and changing part after part in the hope it'll fix the issue Ads

I know you said you've changed the stat, have you run the car without one at all? I know it's not advisable, and I wouldn't recommend it for any decent length of time but I reckon by now anything is worth a shot before changing the engine

The other one is lowered and caged with bolt on flared arches @Freeman_1986, you can't miss it Thanks @Saamjohn it's showing its age a little bit and at an average of 10 mpg its not the cheapest daily out there but it does go well and pulls like a train (no pun intended, they're my other...

Love the way titanium silver reacts to sunlight, it's not uncommon for the plastic bungs just inside the rear lights where the boot shuts to leak, was the boot carpet damp too?

I can understand being fed up with trying to find what's wrong, the only thing I'd say is don't make a rash decision that you regret afterwards.

Missus old dci would do this, ended up being solenoid on the high pressure diesel pump

It's a bit drastic though

PX05 ??? lol, I followed you briefly through blakeney then you turned off by the body shop (assuming it was you) looks a nice car bud

I quite often see a couple of RB 182's floating around down by me in Lydney (05 plate with white stripes in Blakeney last night) , I work in Gloucester but as mines not road legal I get to drive around incognito in a mk3 tce, or the Merc gas guzzler

First off you need to decide whether you want the purple or black series, purple ones are softer and aimed more at road use whereas the black series are more for track than road, whilst they can be and are used on road the extra rigidity makes for a harsher ride 4 lower wishbone bushes (some...

Either that or they're not seated properly within the upper/lower retaining plates, its relatively easy for the upper to spin when tightening the the top mounts up

Possibly 5921 Ads

The heater matrix is a bit of a pain yes, I've removed one or two before and there's definitely easier jobs to do The only thing I can think of assuming the cooling system isn't at fault is a hairline crack within the engine somewhere, I had an old Golf years ago that had exactly the same...

I could be completely wide of the mark here but I'll throw in a couple of suggestions Is the aux belt running correctly and not over/under tensioned? Possible issue with heater matrix? Very unlikely I know but it's always possible I know you've mentioned that you've done a sniff test or...

I take it when you turn the key the dash lights up as normal? The immobiliser light is in the centre panel at the top and should stay on for a couple of seconds and then go out with the key in position 2 on the ignition barrel. If the above is happening then I'd say the immobiliser is working...

I can't rate the R1R's highly enough, used them for the first time at Castle Combe a couple of weeks ago and was very impressed, grip was fantastic and sidewalls didn't really flex compared to some of the more road orientated tyres available

If the connectors are unplugged I'd imagine it's the drivers seat tilt sensor (little micro switch on the inner sliding rail) I had to solder the switch back into the loom as a resistor wouldn't clear the fault

The airbag ecu self clears the warning light once it's satisfied everything's 'working', how many resistors have you used per seat?

I believe soo to, I'd start off by removing the wheels and checking/ cleaning the face of the abs sensors and the abs rings on driveshafts and rear hubs. Did you reset the code when it was checked or have you left it active with the light still on on the dash?

You're looking for 14.4 ish volts from alternator with the car running, after that I'd go to wiring and looking for any damage or corrosion (green powdered surface to exposed copper) or rusted earth points, basically anything that doesn't look nice and clean can affect either or both power and...

If it's already had a new battery then there's 3 things I'd start off checking, alternator, starter motor and their wiring back to battery including the earth points as well

To be fair the internal mic isn't too bad, it picks up plenty of noise from my exhaust

Cheers mate Its still very much a work in progress, it seems to fight me everytime I work on it but I'm well and truly addicted to the little bugger. Thanks for the positive comments Ads

Hello mate My old axle was indeed bent, I bought one second hand from eBay which was £30/40 from memory, I did clean it up with some wire wheels and sprayed it with some aerosol shultz underseal/paint but wasn't happy with how it turned out to be honest. On the bac of this I removed the...

I use a sj4000, and had no problems at all. Yes it's a knock off of a go pro but it's also a lot cheaper, there are fake version of these as well so I opted for what I believe is a 'genuine' one which was around £50

Can't edit the above but here's a link to the safety devices website http://www.safetydevices.com/motorsport/products/roll-cage/Renault+Clio+Mk2-1998-2006-3-door-including+Sport+'28RS+172+and+182'29-without-sunroof/489/1314/

I got it through one of Mark Fish''s group buys, option 4 full cage. It's a 6 point safety devices cage (R017 from memory) that's had 3 extra pick up points, 2 on b pillars and 1 across the tunnel at the base of where the rear seats were originally, these were all from factory so it's now...

Thanks mate, it's got a long way to go yet but it's nice to be making progress at last