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Dont know when im gona get time to go at it again tom so ive just soaked the subframe bolts for now, should have it out in no time once ive got the pinch bolt out and subframe dropped then need to find the correct gearbox for the car thats in decent condition

Will give it a go mate cheers

Thanks for the replys! @Budgie i think its something internal as when i removed the n/s driveshaft there was loads of metal filings in the boot, couldnt tell if there was any when i drained the oil though.. All i have left to do is sort the rack out and drop the subframe then its ready to come...

Think i've broke a tooth somewhere in the gearbox as its been making an awful banging noise when driving and jams up when setting off.. it happened last week when i put my foot down in 3rd gear so i just drove home steady and ive managed to have a look at it today. Symptoms are: loud mettallic...

Why does everyone get so wound up with people using their front fogs?? There not that bright and at a low level, i've never been "dazzled" by an oncoming driver with them switched on... rudeboys in saxos with misaligned hid's are much worse or even range rovers etc if your in a car with a low...

Bit of info for you here mate:up: http://www.cliosport.net/threads/updated-oil-pump-relief-spring.713539/#post-9792853

Thanks will have a better look today

Could anyone tell me where on the case i can find the part number? The only numbers i can see are 7700113677 & 323 Its a strange one as my car is a 52 plate cup but i had to buy a ph1 dogbone for it.

You can cut down the bit the linkage bolts to at the gearbox end and slide it on further to angle the gearstick back slightly

http://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/product/renault-clio-172-dipstick/

Follow the pad manufacturers bedding in process?

Dont ya fancy turinis burt?

Thanks bud, I thought they would be different sizes for some reason

Just wanting to know what socket sizes the standard rod bolts are and arp's as I dont want to get the sump off then realise i dont have the correct socket Thanks!

You might be better with a momo boss mate as ive read that omp ones are harder to fit the cruise control wiring through, ive got omp one on mine and it fit fine and does self cancel the indicators despit what people say, i dont have cruise though as its a cup

I've had one for years mate and there brilliant for the money, i showed @dann2707 what it was like last fri, my suede is past it now but they are not bendy at all, just cheap as they dont have a brand tax put on them

Mcgill motorsport on ebay sell 330mm suede wheels with a 3" dish so you can get a much better driving position, they only cost about 38 quid too

Shame about the wheel mate hopefully just hub and wing to get it sorted, was a good day though even though the ice delayed it abit

For what car mate? Engine light, either get one of them lambda spacer mini cat things or just cable tie the post cat lambda up somewhere out of the way and bung the hole in the decat up. Obviously will be slightly louder with a decat and more raspy, the silenced decats hardly make a difference...

Not a v8 but i dont think you can get more high end for your money than a 760i 6l v12 445bhp http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=141842248710&globalID=EBAY-GB&alt=web

I preferred the apex springs to the cooksports @imprezaworks !

Be careful using a normal socket with no rubber insert, make sure you dont lever over the plug when undoing it, its hard to explain but try and keep the socket, extension and ratchet head all in line with the plug because you can break the ceramic insulation on the plug if they are fairly tight

Isn't it the ph1 inlets that are not rs stamped and the ph2 onwards that are anyway? My early 172 cup has rs on the lower inlet so surely you would be going backwards in performance if you fitted a ph1 item

The cable cover can break up inside causing the problems you list, try that first.. ive had similar on my old fiesta and it was the cable

Ive got some rc6's with about 4mm left if you want to try them?

Good decision mate, i dont bother with a spare set of wheels and just stick to the 16" turinis, for the amount of trackdays I do i dont see the point, the 1.2's look mint on yours

Pads getting too hot like you said then, in my experience of the ds2500 they only squeal with light pedal pressure at slow speeds and are not too dusty, i was doing 20min sessions at cadwell with them in my fiesta and didnt get any fade (130bhp about 900kg)

If your pedal was going to the floor then you probably boiled your brake fluid mate, the rc6 are terrible for dust, they also leave tiny bits of metal on your wheels and up the side of the car, they are exellent for track though and work perfectly well on the road as they have a strong bite even...

If your only using the car on the road get the oe spec brembos from http://www.roadtrackraceparts.com/brembo-oem-brake-pads-renaultsport-clio-172-182.html DS2500 would also be ok for road use but do have a slight squeal when braking slow speeds with light pedal pressure.. Rc6/rc8 i would only...

Classic car market is getting bought out fast by people who are loaded looking to make alot of money tax free... to alot of people cars like these are investments now and they have no interest in cars