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Found it on their facebook page, 600w is comparable to a standard DA I believe. Not sure on the dual torque claim unless it's similar to the Megs speed control.

Coby link please as can't find anything about it. If the internals are as poor and unbalanced as the EP800 I'd suggest getting a standard DAS6 DA

It's all about the taste, as I go get the PG tips

newbies to hard water, get a kettle that pre filters before boiling. otherwise buy cheap and throw away and replace once a year. I think it was the hard water that made BTBM not feel as slick as all the claims. Had to use a pretty strong dilution to get it feeling nice. Something I don't need to...

Soak them for a little while prior to using as it softens the paper and helps move over shapes easier

gally You've made reference in the past to liking the DDJ supernatural sponge. What is it you like about it? I've had one for a while but rarely use it as I find it traps the dirt on the surface making contact with the panel, the textured surface flattens with the mildest of pressure

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Hard work but it is achievable http://www.carpro.uk.com/paint-glass-correction/ Specialist pads and polish compounds can be found above

Reading the opening post, I'd suggest he's looking at the 1.6T RS200? 4door Auto As for assuming ford over renault as he didn't specify, it's a Clio forum, take an educated guess when comparing it against a Polo

Waxybox site calls it V2, description reads it still comes in the old V1 bottle and label. gally sounds more of a top up shampoo so not keep to use it on anything other than a coating

Reading the description I got the impression its been changed, different to the sample in waxybox?

If it were more readily available I can see it being very popular. A BTBM competitor Tempted but still have nanolex reactivating shampoo and AF lather V3 to try out

Different types of products though. Imperial like bilberry is a generic wheel cleaner not designed for removing baked on ingrained brake dust, not an iron remover like WWHW. I wouldn't use ironX on grubby dirty wheels as a general cleaner, as it won't cut through the grease and tar and dirt as...

I would say on my own well protected car it didn't work all that bad. Very little tar and iron deposits so I think it has its place. There is only ever minor iron removed with both combined and stand alone iron removers. Tar removers help remove organic fallout such as tree sap and honey dew /...

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it works, but not as well as using the separate iron or tar removers. If your car is well protected and maintained then this would be OK. If you're dealing with heavy tar or contamination best to stick with separates.

I've still got a little bilberry and AF imperial left that I can use, buy typically just citrus power or rapid dirt shifter. Follows by the occassional iron remover if really needed. Your wheels not sealed with nano coating already?

sand it back enough to remove the contaminated and affected areas, and provide a good key over the whole surface for new paint, shouldn't even need anything as coarse as 600 IMO to key it as you'll start to notice it through the finish. Prior to spraying again, just give it a good wipe down...

oops! A reaction between the paints / primers I guess. Were they all meant to work together? What did you use to wipe clean between coats?

For harder paints I'd consider the firmer orange hex pad