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GENERALLY 4-2-1 will produce power lower down, but 4-1 will produce a revvier engine with power up top But that is a generalisation - as said the length of the headers and the flow rates and the amount of bends etc... will all have an impact on how they perform On a 1*2 the 182 manifold...

*pats harv on the back* :) Yup - cheaply made and sold/marketed as pro gear.

That was the problem I had with my Group N - it was too loud for half the tracks in the country so had a center silencer fitted - only cost about £60

Interesting. So Dan's arguments of you get poor service if you use cheaper suppliers than him aren't exactly true then as you had same problems through him ;)

UK front end is soo much nicer and more desirable but fair play for the work that's gone in and more importantly the de-chav is so much nice. I'm sure the police approve even if CS doesn't ;)

Thank god - bit of actual honesty and PROPER knowledge back on the forum. It's just not the same place at the moment :(

LOL Whut? Srsly? He's stated a dozen times he bought them new from a company owned by the director of Spax. He's stated a dozen times he bought them on 0% finance. He's stated a dozen times that the payment went direct to Spax with an invoice from Spax. So you think he bought the car with the...

Holy f**king s**t there's some retarded comments being spouted in here!! He is - they were sold direct from spax under a trading name, he paid money to spax, spax ARE the retailer and the manufacturer in this case. The finance company isn't the customer - that's retarded, finance company just...

Aye 5pk847 is what I run on my setup too

Inner tie rods you'll need There's a series of special tools you can buy to undo them as the nut for them is deep in the bay Or Fred has his own special tool (ooh-err) lol The tie rods are about £20 each from GSF - but the tool is £40-60 so it's cheaper to just book your car in with...

Sorry Dan but this sounds like a really s**tty response Repeatedly Spax have told people the rears never had an issue and haven't been redesigned. Or they aren't designed for road use (lol) Regardless of which 3rd party sold them Spax themselves are refusing to take them back Just because you...

Throttle bodies

Ahhh I did wonder that as I remember you saying something about the in car bias valves only going down to 75/25 or something and cup bias valve is about 8% isn't it? Would that still be applicable though if you had 4 pots on the front with 300mm discs like me? Surely a bit more bias on the...

Check the rubber cover on the bottom of the column in the car When i swapped to an EPAS column/rack the first time I turned the steering on the ground it creaked badly from bottom of the column inside After loads of checking I pushed down on that rubber cover and it slid down a few inches...

I read a guys thread the other day where he'd converted to running the rear brake lines in the car Roll of copper pipe, £35 in fittings and a bias valve mounted next to the drivers seat Looked a good and relatively inexpensive solution that doesn't require the shitty cup bias valve

Here is how it should look Looking at the pics again Danny is definitely right, that big pulley is actually your crank pulley by the looks of it. Angles of the original shot made it look weird You can see on that pic where the hose goes to the water pump - so it looks like you're just...

Is that just an idler pulley visible then? The alternator is 100% definitely missing - you can see the big o-ring charger cable hanging down in the pic lol

No the normal sized battery hooks under those bits on the bottom mount you can see just under the earth cable - then on the right side there's meant to be a clamp holding it in place Nip to a local scrap yard and take one from any clio

Yep alternator is missing You can see in this pic The bottom bracket is there - the top bracket is there - the big power cable with the O-ring on the end is the mains feed from the alternator - and the wires going nowhere also should go to the alternator You need the bottom bolt, to...

As above - it's a lightweight race battery and completely not right for a sound system/road car I guess someone in the past has fitted it - and quite badly looking at the bodged bracket holding it in Get a normal battery for it :)

Do you smoke a lot of crack?

I don't know of anyone who has actually done it There shouldn't be any difference between the ABS on a 172 and 182. The number of teeth will be the same as 182/172 hubs are swappable. The only difference is 182 cup hubs had different bolt spacing and an uprated bearing. I would say it's...

Voltage isn't the same thing as ampage. If the battery was on the way out it wouldn't have enough cold cranking amps to start the engine. Common issue on diesels as they have to crank the diesel pump too so if they don't quite crank fast enough they won't start. No apology required, my reply...

It wasn't you I was saying crikey at - it was the people saying 12-13vv means alternator is fine lol Yes if you're getting those readings then alternator is absolutely fine so battery isn't holding the charge As for it being due to cold weather - yes it takes more to crank an engine in the...

Crikey Put it on 20 and put the red to the battery positive and black to battery negative It should read 12 to 13v without the alternator running for a healthy battery With the alternator running it should run around 14v

I see nothing wrong there! Hahahahahah. I seriously thing my home made botched together loom looks nicer than that Good work on the new one though in seriousness mate - if that was my first ever loom I'd be well happy. You've given me the courage to strip mine down and make a loom for it...

Mini update Got the EPAS working. Need to tidy the wiring up a bit this weekend but it seems to work on my driveway Road tax starts tomorrow so I'll be able to go for a test drive in it soon Got Ed's 15mm rear spacers with extra -1degree of camber to fit this weekend So ordered these...

I think the TDF loom looked better ;)

Oh just seen you've already bought them :( I wouldn't fit 16mm spacers with extended bolts for a track car - I'd stick to bolt-to-hub hubcentric spacers Will JJC take them back?