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Hehe this reminds me of my old 309 Goodwood "incident" I was driving through a pc world car park and went between two parked cars - thought there was room, slightly clipped the bumper of a mondeo I stopped and there was about a 1" bit of black plastic that had rubbed off my bumper onto his...

Totally agree about the feedback but I actually found the grip about right - you can pull some massive drifts on the gravel. I think people expect gravel to be like driving on ice - but in reality if you're in a gravel spec car with the right tyres you'd still have a fair bit of grip LOL...

Yup

Not trying to just defend the game as I do agree with some points BUT... Playing the demo I do agree - BUT it's not Forza 5, it's Forza's take on the need for speed genre - and it's infinitely better than the arcade handling you get on those games. This game has gravel circuits and driving...

It isn't a bulb - it's soldered LED's on the circuit board You have to take clocks out - dismantle them (take front off, pull the needles off taking note of where they were so they aren't inaccurate when back together, then tape over the lights and re-assemble)

You should partner up with another driver ;) There's not many people who can run a tin top car on their own

Hahahah I literally did the same - bought a 172 cup thinking it'd be fine in standard'ish form to do track days - sat and read Chrispy's thread front to back and went out and bought bodies and went nuts lol Chrispy has a lot to answer for!

Gah - sounds like I've got some thrown together home made s**t then The VVC switch wire is really stretched - and that's with the OMEX in the standard ecu position - so there's no way I could get the ECU into the car The wiring for the 4 injectors is approximately 18" too long - so that's...

I've already got their race loom mate - it's stupidly long in places to the point where 2 foot of loom is bundled up and cable tied under my coil pack :( I want something that's made to the right lengths - and I want to bring the ECU into the car as it will be powering a race tech dash

I have a working loom now - just doesn't have fuel pump or fan control on it. But I would have thought if I put the ecu where it needs to be - run the full loom into the car and use masking tape to keep it together until I get the right lengths it should be fine The only thing I'm not sure...

I took a power feed from back of ignition across to where the head unit was - then split it into the gauges. Connected an earth to the main bar running behind the dash and split that into the gauges too Even found a 12v feed to the standard switches (hazard etc..) which comes on with the...

The loom that came with my Omex 600 is awful - some of the cables are stretched and others are about a meter too long Utter turd off-the-shelf generic shite While the car is off road this winter I want to move the Omex into the glove box and create a new loom for it Is this something that I...

I can understand them saying that to be honest after seeing the wiring - fecking hell I'm supposed to be getting the Race Tech dash for my own this winter - I reckon even I could do a better job of wiring it in than that lol Hahah it's not hard mate - £10 ebay sandwich plate, fit sensors into...

I think the whole "bolt could have been undertorqued" would bother me if it was my engine - but no where near as much as sending me out racing without a working oil temp or pressure gauge. I have a working oil temp and pressure gauge on my car and it cost about £50 in bits and 30mins of my time...

Sounds perfect - it's one thing I don't like about mine at the moment is it only uses one standard mount and the rest are bolted direct to metal - not great for vibration

Depends how they do the USD->GBP conversion - we never get things at a direct conversion, we always seem to get the "living in the UK sucker tax" added on

Wouldn't even matter if they were shorter - if you talk to anyone that understands the way bolts work - 90% of the stress is taken on the first 3 or 4 threads If the bolts come out - it wasn't torqued up properly - simple as Just like everything else on the initial build of this car - no...

That radiator looks absolutely spot on for the Clio on bodies - certainly better quality (and no doubt better cooling) than the cheap ebay polo rad I think I'll get one of those ordered for mine this winter as it did struggle a bit to stay cool in summer

No they can't - it's one of the big criticism's I had of their old promo video They were advertising the 50fps feature - but there slow motion video was done using software that further slowed it down to 200fps - so it made really really slick looking slow motion snow boarding jumps etc.. all...

That's what cracks me up so much about GoPro's promo videos - they're insanely well made but you'll never get videos like that yourself lol Does look a very nice bit of kit - especially the 720p at 120fps if you're into skateboarding or other sports like that - but to be honest for track days...

Riiiiiiiiiiiight - customer service win!

Mine went through fine It's hardly fair for MOT'ers to be expected to know which car would have come with seat airbags and passenger airbags etc.. as standard If there's no warning light on then it should be fine Mine passes with an Omex, Buckets, Harnesses, Sabelt Wheel etc... lol

Wait wait wait wait wait - so you got a 215bhp rolling road graph from a car with the cams incorrectly timed on standard injectors? Photoshop? Rod bolts not tightened is f*cking shocking - I really don't know how TDF are still getting work after this :(

Pulls about the same as mine - and mine are standard ;) I've been sceptical about what's in that engine since I saw the standard injectors. Guess we'll find out soon enough :)

Hadn't thought about that - bloody good point though. Engine and box are worth more than enough to cover an F4RT conversion! Tempting

I was trying my hardest to avoid saying that ^^ lol

Clean the block up - put a piece of glass on top - new living room coffee table ;)

I really like that ^^ Lovely bokeh

Yeah done that as far as it will go. Trouble is 1st is still a stretch and to be honest I'd really like the seat to be 3-4" further back. I think easiest thing might be what's been done to yours and move the mechanism futher back and extend the link rod under the car. Taking mine off the road...

Yeah - might be some 200 cup racer bargains about soon. Shame, as they say, they're expensive to run though :(