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I paid £240 for my 16" VW / BBS montreals to be dip stripped and powdercoated by a place that was highly recommended to me, and I'm not that impressed with the finish at all. Would rather pay for them to be sprayed in future

do you have a spray sealant or something like that? so you can get it all prep'd and sealed, then rinse and start polishing

On that note, almost used up my rejuvenate today. Still have Tripple. The P21 a suitable replacement. will want something I can use via rotary, get both cut and filling etc

I do too with Rejuvenate and Tripple, but found SRP to dry out on the pad alot quicker and not spread quite as nice with the MF pad

Use a foam applicator, pre wet it ideally with a few sprays of QD, then approx 10pence coin size should do a panel other than the bonnet

I do generally prefer the DDJ finger applicators but tried the Af Waxman and although fairly expensive they're much nice to use. As it loads the entire applicator it glides over he panel a lot better with. Did a whole bonnet with half a turn in the pot with af spirit today and it was pretty hot

try doing it the opposite way to you are now, the foam pads to apply and microfibre to buff off

You don't seem to have any real protection in the way of a wax or sealant? tripple will provide a little protecetion but will need re-applying once a month maybe more. Use something like tough coat spray on sealant over tripple and you are onto a winner. AF due their own clay lube 'glide'...

Yet you won't be able to rearrange delivery unless you give them the ref on the supposed calling card as there phones are all automated! B@llsh!t

I've never had a text from them, and always give my mobile as contact number, only ever there emails

My last cyc order was next day, and dpd claimed they were unable to locate the works address yet the driver would regularly stop for tea or to use the wc if he was ahead of time. Tried to contact dpd and got nowhere as I didn't have the card with the delivery ref. Was a waste of time. But I see...

Right, to get started, you need to first get a good wash and de contaminate the paint. Best way to do this is wash, use a tar remover, use an iron remover, then clay. This will remove the majority of dirt and bonded rubbish. Now you have a good base to start from. Options from here are to start...

Exactly what I thought when I first saw it! Nice work mate, where can I find some best of show? Halfords? And will it be ok over my turtlewax? :rasp:

It would have to have the bubbling spitting engine to match imo to warrant the extra cost of doing the rolling shell properly over the cheaply kits available I'd imagine. Does look awesome and steps ahead of the v6

Really? That's not exactly good advice is it! I've got rust coming through on he arches, bought some touch up paint and jobs a good'n. Can't see it anymore so must be fine yeah? I'm sorry but you can't be coming out with stuff like that as its not solving the problem, it's temporarily...

That is my biggest problem with CYC, I've done and had the same experience with them, whereas i4d have normal delivery and it would arrive before the the cyc order P21 paint cleanser arrived today thanks Kev

Why both revive and c4? Or they for different cars

With G1, simply open hose sheeting after rinsing will reduce the worst, but I found the only use for my aqua blade on using on glass immediately after rinsing as it does a good job and nothing to scratch! If you do struggle with spotting still then mist a MF with a glass cleaner and give it a...

I think he's referring to the application of hd wax. Apply to 2 panels, buff the first panel and apply to a third, buff the second panel then apply to the forth and so on. That way you leave it to cure for a couple of minutes but not too long It can be awkward to remove if left too long, used...

+1 quick and easy products that are the new SRP & EGP combo IMO

If you're shopping in halford get the megs detailing spray hat they put in there kit, or ag rapid detailer. Both will work fine but will work out more expensive than those mentioned above

I'm sure JD recommends last touch, buying in bulk works out very cheap. I myslef use born slippy concentrate

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You sound just like me when I first posted up about not getting the desired results, and in my situation it all came down to technique. But in fairness the combo used in generally for finishing down, although the pro's will more than likely be able to make it work for them. All I can recommend...

I thought we got past this, oh well 1x Swedish made penis enlarger endorsed by one Austin Powers

The original version of AF gloss looked like but didnt last well at all. Not tried the new formula. I still find myself going to the i4d tyre gloss as it lasts very well but is extremely glossy. I'm finding a good mix of looks and durability from both gt t1 and af revive on tyres freshly prepped...

Kind of, I have the yellow basics of bling version and its alright, much prefer the waffle type than a normal MF

I found revive to not work on Renault rubbers, but did on the vw. If not the gtechniq t1 does. Probably not as good as swissvax but won't be bad. Guess it depends on what kind of rubber were talking about. Sealed window rubbers no, but untreated megane cab they did

Maybe you did have but I've never seen a powder coated wheel that could resist the 300'C + temperature of brake yet. And I didn't think a polishing compound would remove iron, hence why we all use ironx The reason to sealing wheels properly is so that you don't need to clean the wheels weekly.