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sounds like a loose connection somewhere more than likely one of the power connections switch the system on an wiggle all the wires will more than show the problem

i've got a shell drivers card and have only earned 792 points since end of november and thats with two cars and now and again filling up the works van. it's the nearest garage to where i live so i'd fill up there anyway so might aswell get something back now and again. the onlt thing is my...

i would of thought they would have to prove there capacity to advertise it as that. so the higher the mAh rating the longer they should last. as for charger and good charger with - delta V individual charging should do just trying to find one that will do more than 8 is going to be tough

i think it depends on how long you want to wait foir them to be charged

have you got just the stock speakers and head unit? i'm not sure a 3 microfarad capacitor is going to help much i'm sure you need to go smaller and be of a non polarised ceramic type. fisrt thing i would do is check the earth coming from the chassis to the battery

thing is, is that before the x-over? if so it's probably a 70/30 split plus losses in the x-over so the mid bass is probably getting 70 of the 125 I = P/V average amplifier output voltage rails are 35v so thats only really 2 Amps of current

thats where it starts to get complicated as the output voltage varies between different amplifier makes

thats the way i would do it as the stock wiring is probably good for about 3Amps of current

no x-overs as such just a small non-polarised capacitor mounted on the back of the tweeter

the one that goes from the chassis to the battery i put a piece of 25mm2 in aswell as the oem earth. the one i got looks like the one on ebay but i think they have just used a generic picture of a yellow top you can sort of see it here

yeah they cable from the fuse box. yeah fitted fine in the space for the battery nope i only upgraded the earth as i was getting a bit of volt drop when the amp was going full tilt

well the positive cable was a bit short so it was like a piano wire

i had a yellow top in my 1.6 fitted fine just the terminals are bit too far away it is a d34 model

watch out for the vibe ones as they are made out to be more powerful than they actually are. e.g they'll say it's a 500w rms sub but the amp bolted to the side is only 300w rms

Just wanted to know if anyone had bought a set (any make) or heard a set? was looking to get a set for work rather than a radio. would like them to sound nice and run off batteries. don't really need to bet that loud as i'm not going to be much more than about 10 feet away in a quiet-ish area.

tbh i think it's common on all puntos as my mate had probs with his in his punto. yeah a switch is fine as long as you got the supply from an ignition switched source as he would drain his battery if he forgets to switch it off

yeah the amp turn -on lead is protected by a 500ma fuse normally to protect the hu. just take a link fron the ignition lead that goes to hu if it's got one

remember that most mono/sub/class-d amlifiers work best when you show them a low impedance (ohms) so sometimes if you got a 4 ohm sub you might get a better output from a bridged 2 channel amp

the number of channels relates to how many speakers you can run off it and have seperate signals coming from each

i used to kill my stock battery with just 1 1000w amp all was good after i fitted a yellow top