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god damn oddball 1.6 strikes again:D

as in this pic the bearing is fixed to the drive shaft but i can't get the new one back into the bracket

how do you do this??? or is it a case of getting it pressed in there. as the old one came out with a whack with a shitty hammer so i thought it would be quite east to get the new one in:S

i moded my glove box light to contain 10 10,000mcd white leds looks pretty good and would probably take a weeek to kill my yellow top

yeah if it's the same as 1.6 coil packs then yes. just make sure the ignition is off and you won't get a shock

you got a 200 cpsi aint ya:evil:

i've got a sports cat on my 1.6 and it is loud almost too loud coupled with the prospeed the emissions light is on but hasn't affected anything and it has flown through emission checks.

i don't see the point in up grading the cable until you start putting 80wRMS+ to the mid in the door. i'm using my hu's active x-over to run my fronts from all 4 channels

sounds like you will need a uprated alt and the biggest batt you can fit in there as for the amp to go into protect you must be pulling you electrical system down to about 11v which aint good that amp should only pull 120A (peak) which is a lot of extra power demand but i'd say not enough to...

yeah if your going to get a 1.6 try and get a grp 8 one (mine is a grp 10 for some reason:() they are definatly quicker than the 1.4's as the guy found out the other day:D

yeah silver was better imho

the ONLY thing a split charge system is good for is running your audio at a show and then still being able to start the car after the ice batt has died

you need to remove the front silencer box then there are two screws on the box that mounts to the tb remove these and you should see the air filter

well you could just record the line out from the tv to line in on sound card then burn as cd?

anyone help on how to get the last bit out in post #25?

20hz-20kHz is good as that is the human hearing range 200hz is border line sub-mid bass

i think you will find that the tweeter is the only thing that has any sort of x-over(hpf in this case) which is basicly a bi-polar electrolytic capacitor in series

the electrical system varies it's normally 12v engine off 13.8-14.4v engine on THD=Total Harmonic distortion, 1% is quite high but not for a class d if you know what i mean noticed that the multi channel only goes up to 200Hz whick aint good

the cable that comes out of the hu splits up one set goes to the tweeter and the other to the mid

yeah there is a note at the begining saying that the roll pins are on the early ones and may not be there

yeah got the haynes manual but they don't even know if a 1.6 exists tbh lol

28.3169 litres = 1.00000189 cu. feet

does this come apart some how or have i fucked it???

glide pin fixing or spring loaded?? wtf does that mean

it should be given in the spec sheet usually in litres:S

yeah:( i think the b******s have sold the wrong replacement??? looks too long and says JB1 on the box which i think is to do with the gear box

is this what comes with the new one???

free air means basicly mounting on parcel shelf with no box at all in the spec for a sub it should give you the box size in cu.ft you then need to subtract the subs displacement from that to have the right size box to mount arse out

get the JL's much much better than the audiobahn's

yeah tied it up out of the way cheers must just need a whack with a persuader