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what about the bottom ball joints? (that bolts to the wishbone) i was planning to replace these as good practise - i did both andthe track rod ends on my old valver and its improved steering dramitcaly. i assumed the williams would use be the same parts unless anyone can tell me otherwise?

Ive had both now and im beggining to think i prefer the gentle predictive breakaway of the 185/55 even if it hasnt got the outright grip of the 195/50 and of course 185/55 is OE as is also the P zeros iv got all round on my williams

Top gear were doing 4 yokos for £100 inc P&P but i cant get a reply from them at present

im looking for a set of four anyone had a good deal latley? i dont want them fitted just mail order

Hi Phil, hows the car going? i got bored of the VW relability and sold the golf this week. Im thinking of buying something a bit more involving and there are a few cheap Williams about hese days (my mechanic is subsidising the pruchase!) I remeber the guy who took a williams 3 to 210k had...

i need to knoiw when the second cam belt interval for the williams is? i know there is one around 70k and i thought from then on it was every 35k or there abouts? meaning a 106k williams is due a belt? Any help much appreciated ASAP many thanks in advance

its not a clio but a 306 S16 so similar i suppose, once the big ends have gone and become audiable is there no chance of getting away with just popping the sump off and sliding new shells in there? is the crank/rods likley to be damaged?

well done BenH, BenR will still be muttering about tractors when your pulling away from him with ease! ;)

hi mate, when i had the car the main wire connected to the alternator came off, its right at the front and we managed to get a new washer connector to fit the wire and bolted it back to the alternator but at the time a soldering iron wasnt to hand so it was just sealed with insulating tape...

its a Renault - expect problems ;) At least its still running!

i got an inlet manifold and throttle body etc with all the mounting plates and everything needed dead cheap if your interested henryeasterbrook@yahoo.co.uk

if it were my car i would get some re-grinds off Bondy, while the head is off i would get the casting marks removed and polished and the stage 2 hill power chip and you will have 170BHP, but then its not my car (anymore :() please no bodykits!! coilovers yes but the suspension is all new OE...

the captain! Mastercheif?

those silly F7Ps scream like a two stroke hair dryer, torque may be the luxary of an old man but your should respect age and the knowlege it brings!

Look you chopsy little fecker!! in simple terms the real power come on earlier 2750 ish with mine and pulls progressivly to 7k hil power limit, i agree with what your saying but have a drive of one and you might find you like it more then you expect, drive mine its alright! no more tractor digs!

ive had both in the same car, i much prefere the F7R for what i use it for, and for me it was the far cheaper way to bigger power, there is little differnce between the two but i would say the % increase per pound is better on the F7R Also look at adis 2ltr running 14.2 1/4s after some head...

its also possible to burn an entire clutch off in a matter of minutes, once hot enough it just dissapears, mate did it on a brand new car, i also got the pedal to move a fair bit with 20 minutes of "heavy" use on an old company car. imagin the sole of a pair of trainers, they will last...

as seen in the F7R problem thread but didnt want to hijack the thread... meanwhile ill put a pic of my project on here http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/file.php?image=1054497766__turbo_today_02.jpg Wow!! you have got to expand upon this? what is the spec of this if you are willing to say...

any garage will fit it provided they are aware or you explain that its straight forward swap, i paid £200 for the swap, remeber you left with lots of stuff to sell after the swap which paid for well over half my conversion. i sold my engine with it still in the car, bloke came and saw it drove...

there is LSD for 16v/williams for sale, i did a google search for clio williams cams and it came up, it was a grand but it could very usefull for some one with that much power and turbo delivery, my willy engined 16v spins like a good un out of bends, a sudden whack of 250BHP must light up the...

RobFenn - apart from maybe your mate tom 1.2 16v i have never known anyone come out with such vast amounts of absolute rubbish as you, why do you feel the need to post complete crap where ever the opptunity arrises, you are enitled to your opioions but your simply wrong! the earlier TVR used the...

i paid £60 for the clutch and £100 to fit, its a days work

where would you have sourced this williams engine? the point is its very close to the best hot hatch ever, you cant buy a williams for the money i have spent on my 16v, and almost everything on my 16v is brand new, i doubt my conversion would cost much more then yours, butt hen i wouldnt pay...

not talking about your car specificly as i have no idea what its like but two rear arches would be a write off for most 16vs, its veryu very expensive to replace if done properly, from the pics i can see i would say the car is fine. i enjoy my car far more now i abuse it and treat it as a work...

Chris is correct, so is Ben, The GTT conversion is worng! (must remeber to use shorter and more simple words with the GTT conversion boys)

how about a clio with a renault 19 16v engine in it? you would need differnt inlet arrangment, but i would be a rock solid and progressive 137BHP from a modern engine. if only they werre readily avalible for for 2 grand and group 12 insurance now that would be an easy decision

tyres off (cant do this yourself) wire brush to remove the flaky paint, and a lick of beal sealant if really bad corrosions of the aluminium, omne will not work without the other, expect to pay £5-£10 a wheel at a local independant tyre place, cheaper if its a cash in the back pocket job. i...

its dodgy but when i had a spare i used to lift the rear by putting the jack on the spare, its spreads the load nicely, but you wont see it in any manuals! be interested to see how you get on with the rear beam, i might try mine one day,

on my valver i have had two set of goodyears, NCT £s are better then NCT 5s and both are better then F1s (sorry to say that, but the trade catches more driver then it does grip) great in the wet, im now on the ultra quick wearing Bridgestone RE720s as supplied to your good self Ben, they are...

ive had an alpine in the past and liked it, other than that i have always had and loved pioneers, partly becasue i was young and they looked good, but now i will stick with quality, proably a TDM-7582 and CHM-5630 changer for £185ish, cant go worng at that price