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You won't need extra fuel at blyton in a standard car. Just tank it before you go in and you'll be alright.

I've got some nearly new ad08's sat here if you're interested

That's a GTTDI box. They'll be bloody long ratios.

I assume you've changed the bell housing? As the kit that scoff does isn't for the r32 box.

No, realistically you want egt and lambda probes in each.

So is F1.

It clears the ph2 bonnet, I've got the same setup on Vikkis. Just haven't got round to mapping it yet

Just be aware they need the correct tools to check the timing. The amount I've had in that's been checked and is "bang on" and they aren't is unreal.

Timing is a possibility, but that won't cause a noise unless it's very bad. But it'll also be all the time.

Perfectly normal for them to come on with ign live, then extinguish after a few seconds with the engine not running.

They occasionally stick, but that's down to dirty oil or silicone usually. Pop it apart and clean and it'll go again.

But as I said the port could be flowing, and a restriction be between the plenum and the port (so in the runner) map will still read atmospheric, but the pressure at the inlet valves actually be under a slight amount of negative pressure. But anyway, we're very much getting away from the point...

The fuel trims are only as good as the lambda sensor reading the mixture. Assuming, they're all ok is asking for trouble. As for the map sensor and "damning" that would be correct on a forced induction engine. However tuning with atmospheric pressure means that it would create vacuum rather...

I'm willing to do so, but sadly that would bump the costs up for everyone. He'd have to pay me for my time, aswell as the additional casting changes, testing again etc.

Fuek trims won't tell you anything really. Also as the map sensor isn't at the intake port but is actually in the plenum it won't say if there's a restriction anywhere after the plenum which is where I believe the flow issues will be, or can be improved.

Totally agree. But the inlet in this thread doesn't even have a distinctive bell mouth.

I think that's a good option, or just an o-ring will solve it. The RS 2 is deeper down wards towards the bottom of the engine block, which is where it gets the volume from.

I'm happy to take a look if you want to book in, I'm only Glastonbury so not far atall.

The leaking pipe is just a plastic fitting with no form of seals. If it leaks with equal pressure, it's certainly going to leak with 15-20inHG negative pressure. But as I said this is easily sorted with an o-ring.

It can do. If you released it enough to release the tension on the belt.

The RS2 was actually presented with flow data and dyno graphs.

Genuinely can't believe this is the same car!

Once I've got ads' on I'll do a back to back datalog of the inlet on the same map. And we can view how it's actually performing

It hasn't increased the air flow though. Otherwise it would be running lean.

There's only so much you can do with timing safely. Timing itself doesn't really get affected that much with inlet mods. Yes exactly that, it's running rich, before and after so it's made no difference atall.

I'll explain simply why, just for those who haven't a clue why I'm saying what I am. Say the engines got just the usual induction kit, matched inlets and exhaust. You map it for around 12.7:1 AFR. (12.7 parts air to 1 fuel) you've now added this inlet. Let's say for arguments sake, it's now...

Because it should be running very lean if it's made a massive difference. Even with wild cams, I can't see these making a genuine 195 let alone 200.

No other way round.

Appalling picture, but you can see the light trails and just a small smoke trail to the right.

If it's running rich its lost flow against the previous setup. I've had a quick look at ads, namely checking it before fitting and glad I have. Bolted it up to a spare cylinder head and found its got a few leaks (used a snap on smoke tester that I use for finding such issues!) and found both...