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Yup spot on.

I'm adjusting ads's timing tomorrow and will do another datalog to show the benefits, it is also being xtra'd but i'll have to do this at the same time but it wouldnbt be a massive change on that alone tbh, this was done at the weekend as I had a spare moment and was curious.

worse than the matched inlets and ktr setup. they do both benefit low down over the stock inlet, but the sm looses out over the setup on this vehicle after 3500rpm.

The RS2, it has the highest Duty cycle and AFR after 5500rpm. followed by the stock inlet, followed by the SM.

AFR high and duty cycle high, means its flowing well. if its low and low, then its flowing badly. high AFR and high duty cycle means the car wants more fuel to coincide with the more air its now seeing. As we see, the RS2 duty cycle is pretty much higher than the rest, yet the AFR is near...

Closed loop until 4500 rpm, completely bone stock map for reference purposes. if I was given dyno time I would've taken my spare Gen90 and done them back to back like that.

AFR/duty cycle/Engine speed. Ignore low down RPM as this is the airflow being too low on the tailpipe sniffer. what we're looking for is a low duty cycle line and high afr line. This means its flowing less fuel and running lean, take the STD inlet one as the bench for this, if its higher than...

no mate sorry.

As said they've been datalogged, not dyno'd so its seeing what the AFR's are. I'll quickly explain what ive done while im waiting for the graph to upload. Datalogs taken with an RSTuner pro, wideband data provided by an Innovate LM2. These were taken back to back, SM inlet, then the stock...

Hes made the right choice shifting it on.

Thank you mate, just typing it up and getting the graph sorted (f**king excel!) but for those wondering, I have a back to back test with matched inlets, RS2 + This inlet on a stock map on the road (No dyno graph)

I'm the specialist. You're the person complaining of poor performance, poor idle, weird exhaust note. I see these literally every day and can spot a car with timing out a mile off. You apparently seem to question everything else except the route cause. Btw, incorrect ignition timing and fuel...

If I'm being honest, it's best going somewhere where they know what they're doing. As (with all due respect) if we have to tell you what the boost pipes are, you won't know what you're looking for to find an issue.

Stop wasting everyone's time and listen to what your told.

I can take 5 different cars out and all 5 will give different results. It will tell you f**k all. I've told you for the past 3 months that you've been posting about your issues that it's timing EVERY SINGLE TIME. Just because you have incompetent mechanics out there and no one to check it...

Take it elsewhere. I'm with Mick on it being a boost pipe left off or similar. Boost pipe provides pressurised air to the engine. The fact you can only do 50/60mph is saying that all over

Basically.

Certainly sounding like a UPC fault.

What's that going to tell you?!

A basic kit won't work I'm afraid, as there is no test point. I've just shelled out nearly £500 on the genuine Renault kit (and that still needs faffing to fit a 1*2 fuel rail). I'd like to see about 1 bar on pre gin and 3bar idle as its not rising rate

Unlikely to be the fuel pump but not impossible. You want a fuel pressure test before you do anything

If its always when it's been left over night and it starts on the second go every time then yes it's most likely a leaky pump/fpr

Yes theyre in tank

Take it all apart make sure it's all there, then refit it. We had issues with one that had been apart before we got there and the locking ring hand been glued on.

Chances are the tank has distorted now

Bad earth

You're not the only person thinking this.

Never seen a glazed flywheel on these. I'm still betting it's a cheap and nasty clutch. We swear by valeo for a reason.

I've had 3 or 4 brand new LUK items slip from the moment they're put in. It's why I never fit anything other than valeo

Already sold fella