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1.6 head wouldn't fit.

Pms do state to change the studs each season

I'm willing to bet who he's heard stories from, if its who I think it is, they are just that.

It gains mid range.

I can put it on the rolling road if you like Alex, I did say it's atleast 185, but that's all I said. You know I didn't rolling road it, and I did give you the option. Going on the fuel figures I've seen on yours and what others usually do 190+ but I'm not one to say oh yes it's doing 200bhp and...

What I found on Alex's was the rs2 was better up above 4000rpm, the sm was better below. We need 5 cars to do back to back tests on each to get a fair trial on each. But I only had the 1 car, and I was curious as everyone else was which is why I did the test (in my own time as well) and quickly...

As said though, every engine is different. Many said you'd never do 215bhp on a stock bottom end, but I've achieved that.

On an already strong engine as has already been said. Did 175bhp before any work. Which is quite rare to say the least.

It's strange, as the AFR on the vehicle I tested it on, showed it was rich, with a lower duty cycle against a very well matched set of inlets and a KTR induction kit. And then the rs2 showed it was flowing better after 4000rpm against this setup. I was hoping it was going to work as this was all...

Yes looks good from here

That it's not the ac compressor.

Yes. 100%

Twin scroll b*****d lol! Compgate 40 here!

It's a whole compressor really. It has to come off so no point in replacing just the clutch in my experience (as new ones are bloody expensive when you can get a used compressor for next to nothing)

Ac compressor clutch.

Does it go with the ac being switched on/off?

Sounds more like you've got an OBD error

I love DS1.11's.

What crank bearing?

On the other hand that was a case of "it's getting forged this year anyway, let's see how much boost it can take" and all of these cars in here that have had issues, are all running low(ish) boost, 0.8-1.2 bar. Chips was running 2.0 bar of boost, and saw more track time than any of them on here.

Rear main oil seal. I'm seeing so many weaping now.

You don't need an adjustable actuator. You just want a .7bar one, and then use something like a MAC valve or an N75 to control the boost level electronically. Speak to Owen developments, they'll stock the actuator you need

Well @Stopherson came up a few weeks back to Give me a hand and to get his MOT done. So we cracked on with the cup. No pictures taken, but the subframe got welded up a bit more substantially this time, so no cracking! Then we set about getting the new engine in. And these are the only 2 pics...

Quaife

I think you're right. May as well run a nice fancy electronic one and that way the ecu can control the boost.

Some have a t piece.

Don't get a forge actuator for starters. They should just be able to adjust the preload on the actuator arm and that'll give more pressure.

Hmm not sure how to wire that one in then, may be a case of a patch loom

You won't get better than Andy up north. He is very busy (and also ill I believe today) so email him and he'll get back to you

What ecu? I run wideband on all of mine, then give it 2.5% of trim, so when the sensor fails (which happens a lot more with a wideband) it doesn't throw the fuelling out enough to cause issues.