Search results

Sounds like the engine is t fully up to temperature. Ignore the temperature gauge, they take a good 20-30 minutes to get hot enough for the ECU to allow it to rev to the redline.

Be careful supplying your own parts. The three garages I use, none of them will warrant their Labour if they don’t supply the parts. If I was you, I’d find a specialist local to you and take it there. Where abouts are you?

I think they hold 3.5 liters from memory? Just keep going.

We’ve had a few; LS2 V8 - centre silencer removal, straight pipes fitted, new flexi’s. £150 Kangoo van; custom cat back with side exit; £300 Mustang V8 - x pipe, mid section and custom silencers, £1100 Mk1 clio 172 conversion; manifold back system, took him literally 10 mins. 😂 £150.

That’s lovely!!

No not yet. And there’s good reason… I’ve got a very addictive personality and I’m genuinely scared I’ll be on it all the time. Everyone I’ve spoken to says it’s amazing and I’m petrified it will ruin my life. 😂

Yes mate, got the Oculus thing, the one with the biggest memory. Used it twice and not looked at it since. 😂

👀

Sadly not. Honestly mate, it was a struggle just to drive let alone worry about the go pro. It was 31 degrees at 1pm. And I’m fat.

Another day at Castle Combe, to say it was too bloody hot is a massive understatement. Car was faultless again and apart from my mates ludicrous FD2, nothing overtook me all day. I’m at the limit with the car now though. I can’t make it go any faster. I’m consistently 1.21’s. So I’m...

Probably tree sap or overspray. Get yourself a clay bar. Piss easy to sort. (On a side note, every car I buy myself I clay all the glass and clean it with Anglewax, it’s the best thing ever putting new wiper blades on and when it rains it’s orgasmic)

It’s essentially a body control module. Controls the wipers, lights etc etc. The hundreds of tiny solder joins break and crack and causes issues like you’re describing. Very easily and cheaply fixed though so no worries.

Under the glovebox is the UCH. Unplug it and plug it back in a few times. If the problems go away your UCH is on its way out. Plenty of people on EBay repair them cheap enough.

I’ve now got them in mine and I’m by the car now. What pics do you want?

In my (limited) experience, you need to check the following; Starter motor wires. These are very old engines now, there’s every chance the wires are corroded inside. My 2007 car just had to have two new cables because the wires were corroded and it was very lazy to start. Starter motor...

I’d love one but those chocolate gearboxes fill me with fear.

If Josh Cook was ok with 50+ in his rear tyres in his 182 on track, 40 is good enough for me. 😂

No not at all. It’s really really safe and predictable. Apart from a diff (and the driver) I can’t fault anything with the car.

I run 30 hot in the front and 40 hot in the rear. (My car weighs f**k all though?) But my tyres wear the same way as yours, albeit I have MRF’s. As Kyle said, just rotate them to get your money’s worth.

You’d better not miss then you rich c**t.

What about a penalty shoot out…

As above, what you’ve done is cool but I’d never buy anything like that. As soon as I see a Porsche driver on a track day and he’s wearing Porsche clothing, I make a mental note to avoid them.

Mick’s a legend!! Really pleased for you mate. If anyone deserves a big smile, it’s you!

Try and do an evening session at a circuit close to home. Will be a good shakedown and you can plan your next steps ready for your first day in November.

Jack the car up, 4 13mm nuts per seat (2 of them need deep sockets) and that’s all you need. old seats out. Hoover wires tucked away safely refit new seats take car to someone with CLiP and get the airbags coded out. wallop.

The mechanic is about 60, none of the young ones want to touch it presumably because they can’t plug it in. so he gives me post it notes of bits needed if it’s for my own cars. Stock cars just get euro car parts stuff, but I prefer to get my own bits for my cars. I lost the post it note...

Graham Goode is out of stock, and OEM only list the inlet not the return. (Pas) waterpump is available OE new so you think I should just crack on with that?

My Sierra is up at the garage and needs a host of o-rings. Most for the power steering but one for the water pump housing and and a couple for the water injection. in my infinite wisdom, I have lost the list of measurements that I was given by the mechanic and all of the old ones are scattered...

Welcome to the club @franchini

Chepstow or Bristol. I have places in both.