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Have you cured it yet ? Did the new lambda work out for you ? I'm thinking either that or the injector like mentioned above. Also i have learned that an injector fault rarely shows up on diagnostics, will point you in the direction of the "Throttle positioning..." faults if an injector...

well this is strange. the new battery brought me one evening of joy as the prob seemed to be far better/almost dissapeared. It's back. :dead: So... a new + fresh powersource cured it (seemingly) for a couple of hours ? What's strange is that when booting it it seems NOT to misfire. Also...

haha i might be turning mine around with all the opinions on here ! ..Ah well, the strenght of a group saying something ;)

hm.. stress on bolt is still the same though , no matter where the bolt spreads its force to. (only speaking about the bolt, there has been a case of this being ripped out!) But i'm a self taught man so ... still think about it; elementary it is

^^ you are speaking the same words as the man i have spoken to this evening ! He said battery should'nt matter all that much and better i check the ECU earths Thanks , good feedback here ;)

spot on, hahah the Reno scene is a small one ! Have you tried Herman Minderhout ? (aka The French Connection in Holland?)

^^ correct in theory ! Yeah also when looking at the (French) wiring it makes me cry, for f**k's sake it looks like s**t. But I read about someone else here with a bad battery that had the same probs and this fixed it ?? It should'nt really matter though , strange eh ? I think the...

^^ think about this guys; it makes sense when you think about where all the torque/force is pulling on the one bolt; would you want it pulling further down on the bolt, or near the mounting/box where it is strongest? so yeah, thin part against the box (up?) so stress on the bolt is the least...

The new battery has just been installed and it has gotten a lot better ! No more misfire, it does still struggle a bit coming down in revs down to idle. It is a LOT better than before though :approve: Tommorow i will clean+check all the earths and see if i can get the last little judders out

^ thanks , thing is that some 5000 miles ago i threw in some of the proper NGK plugs so these should last another 50K. The "bad earth" faultcode points me in the direction of the battery (because it's a bad one). Just bought a proper nice one and am about to install it. Will post up as...

my 194 (something the like) came from cams, inlets, exhaust, exhaust manifold + remap.. and it cost silly money. Love the car but it's a lot of money. Your tuner will not be up to the job with the things he is promising

There's someone here in Holland who has experience strengthening the gearbox/diff on these boxes. He does gearbox recons for a living. Does'nt seem to be expensive but i do'nt know the details , i could ask ?

cambelt time, dephaser needs doing

I've done the leads and coilpack, seemed to benefit from this but the misfire/stuttering has come back. The battery is very old , had it checked and the measure-device said "replace, bad battery" The fault readout when having it plugged in for diagnosis last week only mentioned a fault...

I know there is one at the alternator, one at the battery (-terminal connected to chassis). Any more ? Car has developed a misfire/judder and a diagnosis/readout brought up a faultcode mentioning bad earth ... ?

liked the other wheels better in some kind of way, missed a centre/cap on those though

Oem ones for 71 euros! Renault dealer in the Lowlands, bought them yesterday (so that's around 55 pounds yep)

the silicon one does have a bigger diameter over the whole length; if that increases airflow/performance ?

This is normal i think; the butterfly remaining closed until floored with engine not running, ignition on. How did things work out for you ?

^^ ?+1

get her some..

^^ temp fix. I've done the conversion and yep the connected pipe/cat is not straight like Danny Sideways said, get this sorted

I'd pay a thousand just because it's Dutch.

You might be missing a lot of coolant. i've notice how , when the engine's running, the coolant is "pressed" through the container/system so i'm thinking you have lost quite a bit through the opening

hmm was going to say cat

flame the fucker

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Re: Wanted: Quaife / Gripper Diff You're playing it safe on track, knowing when to hit throttle not get the inner wheel to spin. This is not the way to go FAST (well it is, unless you have better grip: a Quaife)

first to second ? difficult and maybe destructive full rev gearchange that one.. Yeah this could get noisy I try to sort of "skip" full revving in first, take it to second right where the torque picks up nicely in that gear. Then second gets it's teeth thrashed off to the red.

Which rack did you put in to replace old one ?