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a good tip for your (new) 197 ; run it in right !
first warm up GOOD, and afterwards redline it a lot. I've read a lot that these engines start to run properly+fast when middle-aged . It will be faster in a while, without spending anything :cool:
You can ruin an engine by running it in like...
I would definately first go for what you stated here. Maybe also then trie to disconnect one of the cafs going to your airbox so it has that little extra air (so you can see benefit of larger cafs that you can maybe mount later)
Afterwards you can still go for an expensive airbox. Do a search...
Yes, i had this too once. Started a thread in this section thanking K-tec for their service and soon after it got moved to the "members" section where i could no longer react.
Do'nt worry , nothing personal ;-)
my guess is the only way it WILL work best is when the exhaust is improved with the airinlet-mod , for example v6 airbox, oem airbox with panelfilter, uprated bigger cafs , maxogen , etc.
and then a REMAP to suit the engine being able to get more in + out
The car is mapped from factory to get...
just doing the large one and leaving the smaller one OEM would/could take SOME of the worst stress off the bolts/box-threads , i would try it like this too if i were to go for the uprated dogbone mount.
Interesting, keep us posted !
I would also say you should try the OEM dogbone first, as...
nope, no experience... but all the aftermarket exhausts out there are stainless steel and will last forever ; it's the welding that makes the good exhaust . Bad welding and the exhaust will start to rot/rust right there !
I'm guessing the Yozza exhausts will have (or used to have) the best...
Yep the spoiler is'nt there for the looks ! ofcourse you'll be in trouble with lack of downforce ! The expensive RS6 will ook after you (enginemanagement-wise esp abs and all that ) to keep you on the road; Audi have invented the safe brutal horsepower cars.
the evo without a spoiler will be...
Mark Fish uses some kind of other spring when setting up H&R's to go lower at the back..
There was a thread about this a couple of months ago, i'll trie to look it up.
Do'nt know if this H&R setup detail will help you ? What have you got on there ?
allright , i've heard the newer ones do'nt come with the elongated holes anymore. Then you'll need camberbolts IF you are going / wanting to change camber. Mind you when going lower, the camber automatically goes more negative because of the angle the struts are sitting
i think the recommended rideheight is the way they come out the box so you wo'nt be on the bumpstops that way . you can go way lower than how they come out the box.
when i fitted mine and we backed the car out of the garage you could really hear the tyres squeeling on the tarmac because of the camber that was way off , which means automatically tracking is also way off . This sounds to me like the struts can also put this sress on your topmounts + could...
There are 2 types H&R going around. One has the elongated holes (like mine), with these you do'nt need the camberbolts ; just loosen bolt- set camber- retighten bolt.
With the other type , without the elongated holes you need camberbolts!
i think you should get your camber + alignement setup , really neccescary after lowering.
when i fitted my H&r set the car was almost undrivable !
I think this is the situation putting some stress on your topmounts there