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Hi knuckles it's a 172 cup. The front calipers were stripped down and the pin sliders were repacked with Grease a year ago The rears were also rebuilt however I reckon I could have a look at getting some lube on the parts surrounding the handbrake mechanism

Why all the trolling? do you all work for brembo

I appreciate that anything with iron in it will rust. What shouldn't happen is a noticeable deterioration after no more than 48hrs.

I've had a set of Brembo oem equivalent discs on my car for around a year now and I've had enough of going out for a drive and having to wear off the surface corrosion if the car has been left for anymore than a couple of bloody minutes it sounds terrible and it causes uneven braking on occasion...

Not that I have noticed. I did an oil change a couple of weeks ago. Think I better start monitoring it

A guy at work today said he noticed a little blue smoke mixed in with the white condensation from the exhaust and asked if I had had the value stem oil seals done. I said I hadn't, but could he be right? Are they a common occurrence? I just started the car, it's about 10 degrees now. No smoke...

Thanks koi. I'll give it a slightly more forceful tug

Hi all I'm trying to remove the rear wiper surround so I can repaint it. I've got the rear arm off/broke it off but I can't figure out how to remove this surround. Any help would be appreciated

Think I may have sussed it, jvc released a firmware update so hopefully that'll sort it

So I recently fitted a jvc headunit. However sometimes it reverts back to demo mode and I lose some of my personalised settings. However I don't lose my radio presets nor my Bluetooth settings. I've tried the obvious switching the power wires round to no avail. My thoughts are as follows...

Think I may have solved it myself I changed my upper engine mount last year but haven't got round to the gearbox mount which currently let's the engine move about quite a lot, so I'll change that and see what happens

Evening all. I had eibech sportlines fitted to the front of my 172 today by a garage (I couldn't get the top nuts off). My father in law picked the car up and I have just taken it out for a drive. And there's an odd rubbing type noise coming from the front of the car and vibrations that...

I know. I only have a tuner list headunit at present so I do need a new one with rca outputs and I'll be getting one with USB input.

Actual s**t the bed, just come across this: http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/headpower.htm Can't believe I have been duped for literally 14 years about headunit output! I genuinely believed I was getting 4x50 rms from my headunits I'd be better off just chucking any old headunit it and...

Hummm this requires more research! I always assumed (silly me) that, ie 4x50 on a headunit was rms not peak.

Going to replace my front speakers and head unit. I don't want to bother with subs and amps just yet. Most headunits bang out circa 50w per channel so allowing a bit not to over work the speakers anything more than 70w rms would be unused. Furthermore a more powerful speaker would need more...

Cool thanks for that. Crossovers will need to be installed then it that case. If the dash cover has to come off to change the tweeters then I'm sure a suitable mounting location can be found

Just want to jump in on this thread rather than start a new one. Do the dash tweeters have crossovers for them? If so where would they be located if I want to switch them when upgrading the the front components

I can't really see it being a problem in the short to mid term. I think what I'll do is go back and ask them to make to short sections of flexi that I can then install at a later date

So Ive had some rear brake lines made up for my 172 cup. When I picked them up the two that run from the caliper to the rear flexi, instead of having a flexi section in them they are just solid. I couldn't understand why the originals had a flexi section so didn't argue when I collected them...

The brakes will need to be disconnected buddy And therefore bled. The bolts your talking about hold the Stub axle and bearing housing on to the rear beam. The discs are held on by the hub nut. This may be hidden by a cover on the outside face of the rear disc

Thanks for the reassurance buddy.

Evening all. I need to replace nearly every bolt on the rear beam of my 172 most were so sseized/corroded that they have to be cut/drilled. The others are so corroded thst I rather not reuse them. After speaking to renault Wolverhampton, it is going to cost a fortune to use oem bolts and I...

Looking at it, is it a crack in the chassis or is it just a nut embedded in some under chassis protective gunk?

OK I'll post a couple in a sec

So today I was removing my rear seats and as per every bloody bolt I've come across recently it was corroded and and a job to get undo. I was removing the isofix bar at the rear of the seats. one bolt sheared off not too much of a problem I thought I can either drill it out (used to that now...

So so wish I'd seen this thread before I started taking my rear beam off. Somewhat struggling with these 6 bolts

Hi Tony I'm thinking that I'll do the same. Good to hear someone has already done so