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Sorry, bit late but yeah you got it.

Under vehicle type choose CB1N for 172 CB22 for 182

The way i do is: Crack hub nut off Track rod end nut off Two bolts holding ball joint to lower arm off Support bearing clamp off Pull shaft out of hub side Pull shaft out of box (might be tight where the support bearing is, so give it a tap) No need to drain oil unless it's already out from...

Safest bet is to get one from another 172 to be sure.

Used to be FWD, now 4WD.

You can reset crash data with Renolink/DDT4ALL i believe, but i've never tried.

Just looked, crazy cheap that for genuine.

Yeah i had the Febi one on mine. No issues at all, it's near identical if not the same as the Renault one.

After all the bits you've changed, it will likely be lambda or injectors. But as Brigsy said, get some diag done and see what the lambda is doing, see if it's switching ok in graph waveform.

Yeah i think i remember having to plug in to USB to set the firmware drivers up first. I've not used it for years, it was a mates that i borrowed at the time.

Must be one of the most powerful F4R's around outside of drag racing.

I stand corrected 😅

Take your pick from here and cross reference the parts numbers. They usually list the specs...

I believe they get all their power needed from USB.

I've got some at home, i'll check later. Don't remember it smelling too bad when i did the Megane last year.

That's just how Clios are. If mounting your own seat, you can move it over slightly, but not by much.

Yeah :rolleyes: Wired into the fog lights... He's after a new lower grill so he can get rid.

That's not his, it's my mates @Brett He's just bought it from @avstar1

APC or panel wipe should get it.

My mate bought the Cup you just sold 👌🏻

Drive steady 😂 You'll only lose 2mm then.

I took 4-5mm off a brand new set of AD08R on the Clio at Anglesey on a damp day in March one year 😂

Yeah, throw them in the bin and buy Canon 😂 Nah, no idea with Nikon stuff.

Yes and no, if say it didn't have headlights, you couldn't say they're not there so you can't test them.

North of £1000. Can be pulled out, filled and painted.

Yeah rears do quite a bit on the Megs under heavy braking. DS2500 or PBS will help a lot. My mate had RC6 all round on his 250 and it stopped like nothing else i'd been in. Good idea removing the shim, i bet the backing plate does expand a bit when hot.

Can you turn ESP off on these, i think you can? That's what usually catches people out on the Mk3's as well, it eats the rear pads. Saying that, your were only road pads so that wouldn't help.

They sound a lot worse when grinding into gear. You can get the damper weight for the shifter rod, but not sure how well it works. I know people have filled the shifter with lead shot to dampen it that way.

Sounds like that rattle/resonance at high rpm. What does it feel like through the shifter?

Could be slight clutch drag?