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I run around 10 minutes toe out each side. Ive tried toeing it in but it makes the turn in a bit dull.

I've tried all sorts of rear geo to stop the rear end being skitish on mine but nothing seems to stop it, i think its more down to really light rear end and cold tyres just not giving enough grip. Going back to more or less standard camber on the rear did help a bit though. I run x22's on the...

. No it doesn't.

Ah ok, doesnt sound related to that circuit then. I had a weird thing happen with my cutoff too, but instead of cutting out it was the opposite. It was cutting in, if i slammed any of the doors the car would turn on.. So and took the isolator to bits and made sure it was all working as it...

Are you sure its the battery cut out? if your auto electrician wired the car the same as standard then the fuel pump, lambda and the PAS all run from the same circuit. Its Relay 3 on the original fuse box. Sounds more like a wiring problem or a dodgy relay, unless the battery cut out is actually...

VTR is a sack of s**t compared to the mk5 zetec-s, i had an S2 rallye and i didnt even rate that against my zetec-s. The handling was amazing even in standard form, so planted and compliant unlike the clio which is like a bucking bronco in comparision. But to have fun in it you need to drive it...

+1 Its clear you want a 172/182, so just buy one. If you get anything else you will still wish you had bought the clio. That is unless the stop gap car you are buying is a bargain and you cant punt it on for no loss or a profit when your done with it.

Wishbone will probably be bent too, and possibly the subframe as well depending on how hard you hit it. You will also need seat belt pre-tensioners as they will have gone off when the airbags went off.

Yeah tbh the price of the tool is probably less than you will pay in labour anyway. Can allways sell it on after too.

Not sure on the part number, We just used the VIN number off a clio 200 in the showroom to find mine. I may still have the box though so will look when i get home.

If you get the proper Renault tool for changing them there stupidly easy to change. It is 40 quid though so prob not worth it for doing the job just once, I bought one for the rally car as it means i can do a steering arm changine in about 15-20 mins.

If you do decide to get camber shims dont get the crappy plastic ones from K-tec, buy some metal ones from Pure Motorsport

I think the Wilwood Clio kits are designed with the right size pistons to run a standard cylinder, The 4 pots i have on my car have very large pistons as they are designed to run with a Bias pedal box. But i didnt want the complication of a bias box so i opted to run a servo with a bigger...

M10 x 1 there metric fine.

I didnt have much lucky finding a second hand one, just got one new from Renault for 80 odd quid.

M10 & M12 on the master cylinder, all others are M10 as far as i can remember.

You could, or just buy a clio 197/200 master cylinder like i did. You will need to change 1 of brake pipe fittings to M10 and use your existing resivoir seals but other than that its direct fit.

Its as far away from euro as you could possibly get.

These Ohlins dampers are far superior to the Clio Cup race car stuff, there like 5k new. But Reiger will do you a full 3 way adjustable set up for a clio for like £3k now so no way id be paying 2k for that old stuff.

I think euro car parts are the dealer for H&R spares in the UK, when i ordered my replacement rear springs for my S3 from Awesome GTI they got them through euro car parts.