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Looks ok to me, roughly how mine are.

That process is NLR if you use the ARP Ultra-Torque lube that comes with the bolts now.

Be good if you can make them with a grease nipple, I fitted some to my cup racer and being able to pump grease through the bearing massively improves the bearings life span.

Can also be the Yaw sensor under the handbrake if you have ESP.

EBC Yellows are "OK", they cope with quite a bit of heat but don't give the greatest braking performance or modulation, they are also like wood from cold. Alright for the money I guess but it's worth spending extra IMO.

AlanWalk - If the tyres are E marked they are legal to use on UK roads in any weather condition, irrelevant of the manufactures target use. I think you are confusing the fact that that some 1C tyres use to be E marked and are no longer. Some people have obviously been burnt by a plod that is not...

I'm running a Mercedes A Class electric pump on my car and it is much lighter than standard, not sure how that fall's in with your regs but it retains the hydraulic rack etc.

Sounds like a dodgy caliper or you have you lines connected to the wrong ports on the M/C to me.

Just get it fixed, nip it in the bud before it set's in. They are under the skirts anyway so whatever body shop you get to do it can just blow it in now problem. I would be surprised if it cost you more than £3-400.

Just get them fixed as it sounds like you already have a decent amount of time and money invested in it. Picture of the rust would be helpful though..

Yeah i live in Jersey so unfortunately can't get one from Costco

ET 40-43 is where you want to be really, the further you go out the more scrub you get. I certainly wouldn't go above 38 on the front, wider track does not automatically mean better handling.

Pure motorsport should be able to get some for you, the original ones were by Uni-Ball as far as i know, that is what was fitted to my car when i got it anyway.

I'm not sure what M3 you have but the power to weight ratio of an e46 M3 in standard form is more than that of a 197/200 cup race car. You obviously want one so just go buy one, just buy wisely. Id be wanting to see invoices for gearbox rebuild in the past 12-24 months and some evidence to show...

They can take punishment but also need proper maintenance, if they are anything like the mk2 then parts will already be coming obsolete for them, which can be a pain when things break! I'm not trying to put you off as they are great cars, but my personal opinion is I don't know why you would...

I can see why they do that, they look much stronger in regards to taking jumps etc, my worry would be any frontal impact is just going to bend the leg rather than the mount just bending. But i guess just don't crash? haha

Is there that much of a weight advantage in the Twingo shell? should be cool when finished though! Can you not just unpick the front subframe mounts and move then further forwards? they look pretty much identical to the clio ones so should be fairly straight forward.

Bedding in instructions will come with the pads, usually involves getting them very hot so be sure not to come to a dead stop at anytime during the procedure.

There are quite a few tired ones around now and the good ones seem to go for quite a lot, budget 3-4k for a gearbox rebuild on whatever you buy. As an owner of a mk2 cup racer i would say unless you are going to race the car it's not really worth taking on the expense of owning one.

Mine does but it's for a 7.25" clutch so less mass the the item for standard fitment clutch.

These are the same as the Costco ones, I have found the little 1.25T jacks that are around everywhere just fall apart or the seals blow on the ram. I have the Sealey 1.8T listed below, my father in law has the same jack. Had it around 3 years with lots of use and still going strong, will buy...

Best upgrade i found for cooling was not actually the radiator, it was a valeo waterpump with cast impeller http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/details.php?itemid=394&model=6. I went from running at around 80 degree's with no stat (rally car) to running between 58-60 degree's and it giving me...

172 cup has wishbone mounting points on the sub frame further outboard by around 8mm, the rest is done in the wheel offset. As far as i know the 182 cup is the same, track rods are longer on the 172 cup also.

Id go with the Millers, i use the same in my Sadev. Buy the 5L so you have enough left for your next change/save money, should be dropping it every 1-2 track days depending on temps/mileage on track.

You don't want any of those they are all GL5 for limited slip differentials/dog engagement gearboxes which is too slippery for synchro gearboxes, you need a GL4 oil. I have heard of some people in the Honda community adding a small amount of friction modifier to their oil in and effort to shut...

I wouldn't exactly say it was pointless, but you will need a full aero package to complement it. Unless you have access to a wind tunnel or simulate it accurately then it's really trial and error approach, probably not worth the hassle unless you and the car are already at full potential.

Have you got spacers fitted? that is one of the biggest culprits to unpredictable handling.

Well mechanically there is not a lot wrong with moving the wheel out further apart from the extra component load, if it's literally just for looks then go for it. But if your looking for a handling advantage from the increased track then it can have the opposite effect. Our cars run negative...

I normally slot the hole slightly on the bracket to make it easier to get the bolt in and clamp it all together with pump pliers. Hateful job, much easier with poly bushes..

Really you dont want to be over ET35 on the front or it really starts screwing up the scrub radius, on the rear it doesn't matter so much but you have to be aware of what effect changing the rear track has on the handling of the car. Generally it make it more stable but induces under steer..