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Think they are pretty restrictive also, I'm sure years ago someone had a custom alloy one made that went down behind the front custom member and had the inlet behind the lower bumper grill.

Might be worth trying your Renault dealers, my dealer sell's Motrio and Total very cheap. Last oil i bought was Total 5w40 Fully synthetic, 20L for £38!

As stated you probably don't need to touch it, it's a common misconception that the Tilton valves etc change the brake bias. They do not change the bias all they do is reduce/slow the pressure build up. This gives the feeling that the bias has changed but all it has done is slow the rate at...

Just leave the PAS on and save yourself from making your car worse to drive, ask any racing driver if they would rather save 10kg of have power steering. I bet most would rather the later..

There just Bilstein B6 dampers

Yes done this plenty of times, might not get it exactly to where you want it to be but should be pretty close.

You can probably do it cheaper by buying one that uses it;s own sender, but that's going to be loads more work getting it all setup. Personally id go for that one, Stack is good stuff at least you know it's going to work..

Stack do one that will work with the standard sender: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/gauges/stack-professional-fuel-level-gauge

Could have been MTF, smells more like engine oil than gearbox oil. Most Honda's use it.

My res use to piss out all the time, just don't fill it to the max level anymore and haven't had an issue since. Must be expansion that causes it..

The heat is compounding, if your brake fluid is already 50 degree's from ambient in the engine bay that only gives you a 150 degree window before it boils.

Cheers, will give him a message :up:

Cheers, cant see the link though 😂. PM me it if you like. Cheers

If you are running plain discs then go for RC6 or RC8, Ferodo pads are good, i run DSUNO which is pretty much their top pad but as with all Ferodo pads when they get really hot you start to get deposits on the discs which causes judder which is very annoying. I have run RC6 on Le Mans Bugatti...

Where do you purchase yours from if you dont mind me asking? looking at getting some Michelins for next year..

Yeah mine are wound up pretty high now too, i think they lower the car around 30-40mm on full height, because race car and all that. Might be worth investing in some decent springs like Eibach ones in the hope they wont settle as much, which should help avoid the coil bound issue.

Aren't they already 400Lb? i have the same on my rally car and find them slightly on the hard side but not overly stiff, i was thinking of dropping to 350lb but a much longer spring..

Haha my bad, it's been a long week! In regards to balance, the front brakes have so much initial bite and power that it can upset the rear end of the car when on the limit. It's not so much an issue in the dry as you drive around it by being smooth but in the wet you have to tickle the brakes. I...

Hi Guys, Looking for peoples experiences of moving from Standard 172 brakes setup to the 197/200 Brembo conversion on 280mm discs. On a previous 172 i had CL RC6 on HC discs and that was excellent on track with R888's and standard power, on my rally car i run 300mm Hi-Specs with Ferodo DSUNO...

I just get knackered old ones and lash them up with Tigerseal/windscreen sealant, not had one fail yet and haven't noticed any major increase in noise.

Are you getting a spark? can you connect to the ECU via the software? I'm thinking bad crank sensor or crank sensor wiring. Swap the sensor for a new one as it is always good to have a spare and they are cheap, if that doesn't fix it check you have it wired on the correct pins, if it is then...

Your bolts shouldn't be coming loose, if they are then there is an issue somewhere either that or crap bolts.

I would get the whole 200hp/tonne out of your head tbh, look at loosing as much weight from the car as you can. Add an LSD an some decent tyres and go have some fun, i would only consider cam's at this point if your car needs a cambelt and you are handy with the spanners. You start to get...

As stated above 200 hp/tonne is easily achievable in a Clio, set of cams and some breathing mods along with a stripped interior and you are right at the 200 mark. Most of the bit's you should be able to pick up second hand, add a diff and some more dedicated track suspension at a later date and...

It's not very common, but that is because it does not work that well. ITB's create significantly less vacuum than with an inlet plenum which make it very hard for a map sensor to measure speed density.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clio-172-182-on-throttle-bodies-jenvey-track-race-modified-tuned-rally-boy-racer-/112130567625?hash=item1a1b80adc9:g:AWMAAOSwMtxXrNLC

Expensive to tune and fix though compared to a Clio, i had a very high spec ep3 with 260hp and while it was bloody fast the extra size, weight and s**t steering lock was always an annoyance coming from 172's. I would have another again as the K20 motor is a beaut and the whole drive train takes...

I had Speeline 2116 (chrono) in 7x16 Et35 on my valver and Williams, fitted perfectly. Plenty of clearance for big brakes as well.

For anyone that may come across this f**k up in the future, you can get the exhaust cam 180 degree out and get away without any damage. Re timed it all last night and it's running perfect.

Ouch! even worse when it's not your own car, atleast when the money is going on your own car you dont feel as bad. My thinking is it should be fine as when number 1 is on it's compression stroke number 4 would be on exhaust but i have effectively swapped that over so the exhaust valves are open...