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if he asked for belts to be changed then the garage should of told him that it needs an aux kit and quoted for it. if he asked for a cambelt changed then the garage should of recommended the aux kit needs changing too. the garage has replaced the cambelt and thats what hes payed for. if he...

janspeed is a good exhaust not too loud and fits and looks great theres a new one on ebay at a good price http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-CLIO-1-4-MK2-JANSPEED-STAINLESS-STEEL-CAT-BACK-EXHAUST-1998-2001-/110937075651?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AClio&hash=item19d45d6fc3...

Sounds like low pas fluid level. Top up and keep an eye on the level and check for leaks.

Take it for a blast the leave it to idle and see if the fan comes on if it does and still showing 2 bars then prob a faulty temp sensor. A thermostat that stuck open will normaly take ages to get up to temp when idleing then when you drive the temp gauge drops right down low.

The poor running is causing the lambda to throw up the fault code. Sort out the poor running and then the lambda will read correctly and not show a fault.

also check your strut top mount bearings as when they siesze/breakup you turn it on the lock it loads up the coil then the load on the spring force them round making a load noise from the spring when they do it.

rack mounts are 50nm track rod ends are 37nm dont have a listing for the wishbones would recommend doing up tight when the wheels are on the floor and the cars weights on the suspension so the bushes are in a more natural position with less load on them.

the do the twisted type on ebay round about £15 for no oe.

dont think your power gain is all down to removing the ac. bet if you had it rr again on the same rollers you would end up with a different result.

dont think the garage will take it as there fault as they have replaced the cambelt kit as you properly asked them to do as its the aux belt thats failed. the garage should of advised you to replace the aux belt ect at the time the cambelt was changed and given you the choice to get it changed.

as said has better corrosion inhibitors and uses distilled water as part of the mix is made as a longer life and better corrosion properties over the blue coolent. so if you use type d only top up with distilled water not just tap water.

the wheel bearing is part of the discs.

on my 1.6 16v i uprated it to 075 fitted in the space more powerful and was the same price as an 065.

when you say you checked the coil spring did you remove it to check? as ive had a few snap on the last bit of the coil not visible on the car that make that sort of noise on the road when broken. also are the brake pads secure as had them rattle in the calipers before. have you left any tools up...

had some cars max out my machine before when running to rich.

if the engines running fine i.e no missfires. i would try replacing the coolent temp sensor and you will prob fine that running it rich has killed the cat.

they will have threadlock on them.

f1s in black or williams in gold

100nm and use thread lock. 40nm and use thread lock for the caliper to the carrier.

go for it the rsi 1.6 16v 110bhp 1/2 leather aircon great on fuel.

They are awsome with the 16v sound great with a pugsport got a red one put need to sell it :(

all depends what kit they are using anything from £15 up to £80. if your just after a basic tracking adjustment try national tyres can get it 1/2 price with a voucher www.national.co.uk/special-offers-wheel-alignment.aspx. if your getting the tyres done check out tyreshopper they mainly national...

if smaller wheels are better why do rally cars touring cars ect all use 17"+ alloys??? can fit 17s on a clio and lower it without having to modify anything without any problems if you run the correct offset wheels. 15 and 17 tyres prices are nearly the same in common sizes.

got a huawei e173 dongle with an Arial port would getting an Arial make a big difference in getting a better signal? could i use the internet connection on my galaxy s3?

front sound fine. does sound like you have a problem with the rear thought cups had the bias valve preset and the arm removed?

rears should be 100-150. front inballence needs to be less than 25% looking at the readings thats what the fronts locked at. did you watch the readings as it was tested? as they probably was the same untill they locked out so will be fine. o/f/r is defiantly low and should really of never...

how come they didnt connect up the rpm probe? dose look like its genuinely running lean i would try a coolant temp sensor.

whats the lambda reading at idle? and the co% what readings are the hc and co% on fast idle?

on the passenger side 2nd fusebox its the 3rd relay down. more likely to be a faulty stalk/switch.

sounds like an air leak(exhaust blow could be a small blow on a join) or a faulty engine sensor is the eml light on? faulty coolant temp sensor is a common one to fail. if they can do a live test on the lambda sensors is the voltage changing?