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Sound like you need a bit more toe out on the rear, you will be running more toe in now from the camber shims so it will need correcting. Best thing to do is get the rear alignment measured then you know what shims you will need to but to correct it.
I fully understand what you are saying, i also completely agree that a dog box is better value for money than sequential for a clubman type car as the money would be better spent elsewhere. You are also completly right in saying that the STDSA h pattern and sequential will physically shift from...
I have the thermoformed hardcoat ones on my rally car. Very good quality, i have the front windows still on the winders they do flap a bit as there not as rigid as glass but they go up and down without any problem. Just need to make sure they are kept clean as even though they are hardcoat dirt...
Yeah so over a rally stage that extra second or so gained could be the difference between beating someone and not...
Also as far as i know no one does a 6 speed dog box for the clio like in the Group A cars anymore, so the only option is a 5 speed which will be a hell of allot slower than a 6...
If you had 2 identical clio's both with the same gear ratio's and final drive. One sequential and one a H pattern dog, send them down the quarter mile with the same driver the sequential equiped car will be marginally faster. The sequential will allways be superior as the shift times are faster...
If its the abs pump making noise when you move off then there is something wrong with one of the components in the ABS system, it will be nothing to do with the bracket.
Haha brave man, i find my arms tiring even with PAS. Mind you the diffs in the Sadev are bloody tight 85% lock up iirc. How much are the Michelins and where do you get them from? been wanting to give them a try, currently use dunlops which i find are good but have heard michelins are far better.
That is a possibility, but from what i can remember of my old valvers subframe and the one on my cup the mounts on the cup subframe sit higher up? i may be wrong as im just going by memory. Either way though you dont actually have to use the cup engine mounts, the STDSA is based on a JC5 casing...
Did you by any chance buy that Grey crashed ex TCR one from guernsey?
Im not sure you will find a second hand subframe but if you get hold of a standard PH1 172 frame you can cut and weld in the mounts off the bent one without to much hassle.
No different to run from any other clio really, they only things that need more attention are regular oil changes on the gearbox and keeping the rose joints on the hubs clean and lubricated or they wear out faster and at £90 a pair for the proper ones you want to get the most out of them you...
Ian could you let me know what its like when it comes down? By the looks of it it might need another skin welding on in places just to smooth it off but for tarmac it looks like it will do the job. Plus im not really keen on modifying another subframe to take my current sumpguard again so will...
Depends on weather the calipers you are buying have pistons suited to the standard MC or if they are suited to be run with a bias pedal box. My Hi-specs were deisgned for the latter so i upgraded to a 23.8mm master cylinder from a Clio 200 which reduced the pedal travel as i cba messing around...
I think i might get try a .700 cylinder then, i did manage to get the handbrake working better with the 0.625 in the end by fitting a much longer lever (its a verticle one) but the travel is far to long now so a .700 will reduce the lever travel nicely. Ive got a .700 girling but i dont trust...
Id just make a sumpguard up, I modified what i think is a mk2 escort guard to fit my clio but thats just cause it was lying around a bit of ally plate and some imagination will do you well.
As for the tank guard you can just use some thin guage ally or steel sheet bend 1 of the edges on each...
Hi, Does anyone know where i can get a replacement rear beam for an R5 GT Turbo? The car im looking at has a bent rear beam and i want to make sure i can get a replacement one before i go buy it.
Cheers
Mike
I must say that is complete rubbish, an LSD would be a great improvement to even a standard 172/182. But what you have to weigh up is it worth it for road use, i sometimes use my road car for hill climbs when my rally car isnt ready etc and the thing that allways holds me back is no LSD and that...
If your sensible with money and you can put it on a 0% credit card then why not. yes saving up is the safest thing to do but if your in a steady job and can pay it off within 6 months then i dont really see a problem with it. what really boils my piss is when someone is already skint and puts it...
Re: cup racer subframe part number
Is this a phase 1 or phase 2 subframe? If yours is a ex UK championship car then they are all based on phase 1 cars, not to sure about the palmer sport cars.
I dont know if the subframe are actually different but phase 1's use and different dog bone mount on...
probably just corroded on, loosen the wheels bolts off a bit and take it for a very slow drive around some corners. Should free it up a bit without killing you lol