Search results

Yes, by a fair bit.

Yes, but you'll need the 172/182 front wings as well for the bumper to clip into. Then massive spacers/low offset wheels to bring the front track width out so it doesn't look stupid.

You'd only do it once 😂

Yes. There are threads on here with what resistor to use and how to block it off and vent the tank line.

PBS are also worth a look. Not amazing from cold but soon warm up enough to provide decent stopping power for a daily and will stand up to fast road use. Better than DS2500's IMO.

I'd just leave it unplugged. Mine hasn't been in for years.

Don't remember having issues when i had them fitted on mine years ago. Have you tried making sure the damper rod is fully extended? They are only oil filled and not gas, so won't extend on their own.

Mad, my memory must be failing me 😂 Been a while since i've looked at a mk3.

Are they :oops: I thought the connector was different :unsure:

Ph2 172/182 are the same. Mk3 197/200 are different.

Hopefully it's a simple fix. Brake switches can be fussy, i had a similar fault on mine and even a new switch set correctly occasionally flashes up the fault 😂

The brake pedal sensor won't cause limp mode, only the throttle fault will. Both brake faults are linked. It could just need the plunger resetting on the switch. If you've checked and cleaned all the connections, i would be looking at a possible frayed/broken wire or the throttle body itself.

Yeah Pandora over the Ghost i'd say. Fairly old tech the Ghost system now.

You could do and bungee strap it up in position if you didn't fancy removing it. If you're just dropping the subframe on one side, then you wouldn't need to do that.

Fairly easy if you work methodically with a mate. If you have access to a ramp you could probably have it done in a day or certainly a weekend. Can just lower the subframe on one side or drop the lot and do arb and rack bushes while you're there. Flywheel is single mass/one piece. Not really...

Try some higher friction coefficient pads in the rear then and see how you get on.

Could well be that that's not working. The Tilton level type valves are generally the go to ones. I would look at running an uprated pad in the rear also, I use PBS pads in the rear.

I'd be looking at the bias valve, what brand is it?

I use wetcoat essence, works out cheaper. Use an old 500ml wetcoat bottle with 50ml in 500ml of de-ionised water (roughly 1:10)

This sort of gives you an idea of the difference. Just spraying on can leave areas where the water tends to cling to the panel slightly longer. The wipe on method you can see it's more uniform.

Same, didn't like it at all. Reset and Gwash are a league above.

I haven't and I think with how little of an amount of SiO2 in Bathe+, I don't think it'd last very long. Easily see 2 months, maybe 3 out of Wetcoat.

Aye, give it a go. Seen a few videos of people doing it and they all rate it better than just spraying.

I'll bring mine down. Will be one of those annoying 'you can do mine next' people.

Lookup the definition of brave and it'll have: Lifting a Range Rover Sport with a 1.5ton SGS jack 😂

Be handing that notice in sooner rather than later at this rate 😂

Depends what you're cleaning them with too. I do two coats and leave to cure indoors, but not always possible on a daily.

About a year is what i get. Top up with Wetcoat every clean.

Have you tried using Wetcoat by spraying it on and spreading it in with a wet microfibre? I tried it the other day and it's miles better 😂

If the immobiliser light isn't going out, then there's your problem.