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The caliper moves on its slider bolts. Pull it outward.

What else do you want to know ? Still speak to him now and again.

Moved to Australia, his missus is an Aussie.

I was doing it from memory, clearly it isn't very good.

If you really want one, then TTV do them. The standard one is only 5kg though so not mega heavy. OEM Valeo clutch is fine.

Probably stick with Supertechs. Ktec used to sell the others, but i can't see them listed now.

ARP rod bolts are worth doing and if you like to rev the nuts off it then Supertech or Sirius valves are worth looking at.

Can't use Megane hubs on a Clio.

Ph1 172 engine is 736 and the Ph2 172/182 are 738. Ph1 has bigger ports on the head and better crank, apart from that they're pretty much all the same.

The Halfords 60-300nm one is ok for most things. As with most budget torque wrenches, they are only really accurate in the middle of their range and not at the low and top end. After that they should still be within +/-3% really, so good enough. If you wanted to go all out there's some Snap-on...

I know when you start the car with it jacked up can sometimes bring the ESP/ABS lights on and they clear themselves once you drive it.

Surely it hasn't just disappeared because you have fitted a new alternator and PAS pump ?

Have you tried driving it to see if it clears?

Plenty.

You'll need the timing tools from Renault, about £140 but can be had used for £100 ish. Don't bother with the ebay versions. Need to familiarise yourself with the floating pulley setup on these. The workshop manual is very handy, it's actually an easy process to follow if you follow it to the...

Roughly they hold 700-1000ml A litre should do you.

It'll take you that long to do the belts and pulleys if it's your first one. Well unless the engine is out then it's about 30 mins.

I'd pay to see you strip, skim and rebuild in 7 hours haha.

Don't think so. That 100nm or FT i said would be for the big bolts that hold the carrier to the hub, If there are smaller ones they will be much less.

Rear discs hub nut will no doubt be 175nm like most Renault Sports. Front disc retaining screws will just be nipped/20nm. Not sure on caliper bolts, depending on their size it could be 100nm or just FT (fuckin tight).

Weird. At least it's sorted now.

Easy enough to do the seals yourself with the kit from Bigg Red or Brakes International.

Have you got the left hand bits?

Possibly yeah. It just increases the pressure inside the MC to get more air out. Any DOT4 will do @Space Cadet

Which panel was it coming through?

You can even pump the pedal aswell if you want using the easybleed.

You're thinking of the vacuum bleeders which operate via a compressor. All you do with the Easybleed is attach it to the reservior, then crack the bleed nipple open and it'll push some through.

This any good? https://www.joesracing.com/rt-4172-master-cylinder-math.html

Into the airbag ecu possibly?

Yeah it's a chain, being a Nissan engine. Aux is still a belt.