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A normal ratchet will give you a feel of how tight they are, a breaker bar will remove them no problem but maybe along with the threads too ?

They're going to need to come out at some point. But if you don't want to risk stripping the head, i'd leave them.

A visual inspection ? Always change the tensioners and pulleys when doing the belts.

Can't imagine someone pouring oil down all 4 plug holes. The rocker cover is probably leaking internally into the plug hole bore. Mine does the same on one or two. The plugs can be quite tight, try warming the engine up first.

New PAS pumps and steering racks are NLA too iirc.

I've also had it where one of the wires inside had broken off. Probably from people slamming it ?

Do you need anything specific? Pick a number off here ?

So it was you! I was going to get a pair for a backup and they'd sold out.

Use this if you plan on doing it yourself, pretty handy. https://robrobinette.com/DIYAlignmentCalculator.htm

The caster reading is blank, the one below showing -0°37 and -1°12 is camber... On about the 3rd print out he's got now.

Take it back to kwik fit tomorrow and say you've used the wrong car and the calibration will be off due to the difference in wheel base.

£65! and not even a caster reading.

More than likely that the 2nd printout is the right one, as long as they have the right wheelbase setup on the system.

Well spotted! ? Yeah those kwik fit numbers mean naff all then.

Yeah i've heard him mentioned. I'm booked in with Grinspeed now, Adam actually recommended him.

Tried to get in with Adam at Clear Motorsport for my setup, but he's only doing kit car stuff now.

Me or the OP? Mine didn't at the time, that's what makes the different readings strange. It's on BC's now. Will be getting setup properly next week at Grinspeed.

I'd leave the caster tbh, it could just be like i said. The guys at kwik fit may have not set it up right. The easiest way to add more caster is with adjustable top mounts.

Camber will sort that. 1mm total is fine, it's pretty much factory. 1mm either side, so 2mm total would be very aggressive for a road car.

1mm total i'm guessing ?

Could be the place that's done the alignment though. I've got 2 print outs from 2 different places that have the caster as 2°30 and 3°30 with no changes made to it lol. I'd leave it tbh, it's more important for it to be equal rather than big numbers.

What's wrong with the castor? Edit: Oh you're right, it's 1 degree out ?

You can reuse your ones if they come off ok. The ones i linked are standard length ones, maybe worth getting just as a precaution in case one of yours decides to shear off or play up when you're removing them.

No the wheel won't stick out much more, the shims are only quite thin. Won't be noticeable. Yeah Pure Motorsport are great, i've had loads of bits from them (yesterday actually lol).

Yeah the camber bolts replace the top bolt, leaving the bottom one standard. Yeah, the 20 minute shim would take it to 0°11' on the left side, so practically bang on with the other side yeah. It won't affect the right side no. Shims available here...

Front camber needs sorting, some Eibach camber bolts will take care of that. Could they not get the front toe a bit more even? Say 0°06' each side? Rear left is toeing out too, not uncommon with the rear beams on these being known to be bent. Ideally want toe in on the rear. Would require...

To fit the rear coilovers, will get new bolts for it and refit eventually.

Fitted the rear BC's on the weekend, too cold and bored to fit the fronts ? The Whiteline ARB (bit of bent railing @bloke ?) that has been on for 5 years was fun to remove, bolts so rusty that all 4 on the u-bolts sheared off ? At least the rear sits ok.

Clip or an RSTuner will do it if you have the ABS module which is like £30, can use on as many cars as you like too (no license needed).

Not sure exactly. I remember going to Renault in 2012 and speccing a storm grey one and it came to £19k iirc.