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Down the hill at that little kink before Cascades I believe.

Lifted at Denton's before Cascades ?

Yeah I heard they were. They roll quite well the Clios.

It's probably fibre to the cabinet and then copper to your house. They all say you can't get decent speed down copper, but you can get about 100 meg down it.

What's going on with the front toe!

I always use 3rd for Lodge corner. 2nd is too much engine braking scrubbing speed off. Late turn in needed. It's always a slippery corner even in the dry.

Carbon canister in the driver's side arch. Has it been removed?

That new wrap looks awesome, Craig!

Gary will sort you out mate.

Where in Cheshire are you? Take it to Gary Burnett in Warrington, he'll sort it for you.

Running some camber here aren't you! What is that -3.5 - 4 degrees?

Mercury silver is the paint code you're looking for. Only non sports come in that colour I'm afraid.

There's a specific module. There's a guy on ebay that resets them for £35.

Will need the airbag ecu resetting. It's under the centre console plastic in front of the handbrake i think.

The rest of Clip isn't too bad to use. I just wouldn't trust myself coding keys ?

Let someone who knows what they're doing with Clip do it for you. Not worth risking bricking your ECU trying to attempt for what it costs to get done at a specialist.

What i'd also do is take a picture/scan the v5c once he has filled in his details and send that off to the dvla with the export slip. He will need the original v5c to be able to register it in France.

They are worth 2-3x the price over in France, so it's pretty common as said. Double check the cash, fill in the export on the V5c. Possibly get a copy of his passport (i've seen that recommended somewhere).

You. Haha Repair should look good.

Nice work on the recovery.

Don't need one, just use a big flat head screwdriver.

That's the wording on the workshop manual.

Can leave it off.

Still got air somewhere. If you top the tank right up and then start the car and crack the bleed screw open again it should get the air out. Careful though as it will piss out much quicker than with the engine off.

Dr Leather wipes or Gyeon Leather Cleaner as @Phase1sr says.

The 2 bolts near the catch? You don't touch them to remove the slam panel. It's the 2 on either end towards the headlights and then loosen the 2 lower down behind the crash bar and lift up.

Yeah 50mm should be fine. The others for the rails probably the usual 25mm socket cap bolts should do.

M8 high tensile bolts. Not sure on the length but the standard seat stud stick through the floor by about 40mm or so.

You only need to loosen the 2 for the slam panel mate. The panel is slotted, so once it's loose it just lifts up. A ring or ratchet spanner will do it.