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Tardis. If you can't buy online, AutoGlym Intensive Tar Remover, but works about 10x slower. Then clay. If you clay before removing all tar, your clay bar will be useless after a few sessions on the lower areas of your car.

Nothing in the slightest fella, just a laugh between Kev and I, nothing to worry about I promise.

Red, stickers, bride seats. Actually looked quite cool in a "look at me" sort of way. I bet he gets pulled five times a night, however.

There was something like this in the gym car park the other day. Looked like it was actually used as well, had all of the usually bumps and scratches and the bumper looked like the quick releases were the only thing holding it on! Stickers galore as well...

My penis sometimes shrinks, but only back into a cover that you lot don't have... NATTYS.

No need for a machine with FIAT paint Jamie lad, some 203s on a light polishing hand pad will do wonders. But I won't clog your thread with detailing shizzle ;)

Still not a fan of the car, just the colour! *When it's clean!*

Onyx. Oh.

Just seen he has quite a good taste in cars, so I'll let it slide. /inthegangdot

Yours or mine, Kev?

Sj4(13?) for the win Saner!

Lol'd!

Loller :) He-mail time?

I haven't.

My bad; http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?561435-Adaptor-for-foam-lance&highlight=lance re the Halfords one, I would suggest the same method of finding out chap.

Hmm, I must be. *Goes to check*.

Strong would be more useful for really heavy soiling of paintwork, so for mine it might have been an idea as it is over 8 years old. For Gally's, again, same sort of age, I might suggest it. But for an R27 that has clearly been looked after by yourself, I think Prime is technically overkill.

Prime is a pre cleaner, regardless of Strong or Standard.

R222... or P21s as it SHOULD BE BLOODY CALLED BEFORE THE EU STEPPED IN... ahem, will last if you prep the surface first. I.e paint cleanser, IPA, apply thin layers.

Deja vu...? I don't know is the honest answer fella, as stated in the last thread you started ;) You need to speak to Tim at Cleanyourcar and ask. Or buy one and try it if you like wasting money ;)

Lol, oh and the detail isn't half bad ;) Remind me where you are based again Dawny? I'm London based as of the 4th May so would be great to meet you at a local meet.

Lol. WD40 with a microfibre cloth. Needs some elbow grease. Failing that, Linseed oil or a rubber. However, these are for getting polish stains out, which are harder to get out. Wax should really be a case of a decent warm solution of APC (All Purpose Cleaner) and a decent detailing brush to...

Then a warm strong solution of APC via foam lance is your answer chap. You won't be able to get in all the nooks and crannies with an applicator, whereas a foam will be able to reach those hard to reach places.

It should technically be the other way around fella. Why do you need the stronger product over the normal. If there is no requirement for it, I would just go with the standard stuff.

Thinking about it. Took out the new one (swapped the RTronic for the manual recently). Lol at glorified TT again. plus a lad dressed up with his mates outside a pub wandered over while we were stopped at some lights. Asked if he could have a photo with the car... Still loved by all. Feel very...

Nattys for low budget, Onyx for medium, RG55 for higher medium.

Go to the top of the sub section. Click on the sticky "detailing guide". Click on the original poster and look through his threads. I miss Rich.

Just to point out a seemingly current misunderstanding... Do you need strong?

Hard but not impossible as you say Gallister. With the DA Sonys pads always reacted well to heavy cutting jobs. The SFX range appear to stand up well, utilised with 3.02 IP from Memzerna should see you on your way. However, several hits were needed with my rotary, let alone a Da. It will...

Don't worry. They all come around. One neighbour asked why her paint was blotchy and if I could help as I'm "Always cleaning mine". The answer was bird dropping etchings. Hundreds of them.