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LOL! Aye, i'll be down this weekend with it, plus trolley and tow arm, for definate. Hopefully i'll get the clio bearing fixed for then otherwise it'll be the folks ford mucus or something i'll be down in. Far off putting the lump in?

^^Haha - thought you sounded familiar!

R21T Engine and gearbox won't fit the clio full stop so thats out. Only worthwhile engine swaps if your wanting power are 16v/williams/R5GTT/Volvo 1.7T (as this is a renault unit anyway).

It can be tweaked but will involved taking the std EPROM chip out of the ECU and repalcing it with a different one thats remapped. You can buy premapped EPROMS from Hillpower/Ebay/Superchips all of which vary in price.

Tow it to a garage? Can you not just rejoin the pipe and stick a few litres in?

^^Well get yourself to a scrappy and buy a 1.4 engine and lob that in :)

Is it a phase 1/2? If so, just bang a 1.4 energy in for an easy 20bhp gain....you'll get an engine for under 50quid thesedays...and a couple hundred to fit. Identical to your 1.2 engine so no need to tell insurance etc...just remove the engine tags.

www.retro-renault.com is what you want.

No, phase2's have an immobiler built in IIRC

I don't quite follow i'm afraid?

16v manifold aids torque at low rpm and williams does the opposite > does it at high rpm. Bottom line, it'll make the 1.8 perform worse.

washer bottle gets replaced with a bag and stays in the same scuttle.

Remove and fit new column? Not that hard...IIRC 4 bolts to remove the old column once you get dash out of the way but even thats only a few screws from memory (column cowling and the bit next to the bonnet release). You'll need access to the column at the rack as well but if you're up on...

That looks pretty good...have you got any of the front arch so i can judge against what i've got atm? :)

Depends how you drive i suppose but track/fast road use was mentioned and its generally agreed that calipers running non-vented disc are poor. Certainly my old RT didn't stop well with a bendix setup and my phase 3 1.2 is poor with a lucas setup...neither a patch on the 16v i had.

Don't know about that...isn't the adapter supplied with them a pile of sh1t becuase it covers half the inlet?

Not true! Lucas or Bendix, all the std mark1 non-16v calipers are rubbish, even for normal road use. Get some 16v brakes, or RSI/GTT if you're keeping the 13s.

As above, what springs give the greatest drop for the non-16vs? I'm tempted by coilovers but don't know if i can justify the cost TBH...if i can get a decent drop with just springs i'd do that...i have 16v springs are on atm but it's not down low enough so just need a wee bit more! Anyone...

They always loose power...stick with the std airbox or a hillpower relocated kit.

Don't do it! Sunroofs are troublesome at the best of times...messing around with them always makes it worse. If it doesn't rattle or leak at the moment leave it be!

Well buy some new 16v shocks as they're not going to be anymore expensive than RT efforts.

Yes.

Get some -35mm 16v springs onto it and shocks too if your hub spacing is the same. Personally speaking you'll get away without rear shocks....but they will help. Again, use 16v rear shocks as they'll go straight on, will be cheaper and are stiffer

I'm selling one of those on ebay atm; http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mk1-Clio-Gearbox-Mount_W0QQitemZ110001340559QQihZ001QQcategoryZ10410QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

out of interest, how quick was 'no time' and what kind of driver is your mate?

^^Pink 172s don't count!! ;p

Sport geabox might be better but its still a JB1 so isn't going to be any stronger...i'd also suspect that the 1.2 ratios would still be more suitable for your 1.2.

No, thats a sport gearbox...different from RSI.

Yes it will but why? It will kill acceleration as the ratios are longer! Incidentally i'm away to put my 1.2 gearbox onto an rsi engine and will have an rsi gearbox spare if you want one. Really though, don't do it...the JB1 (1.2/1.4 box) is strong enough, even for 16v power.