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Certainly does look the business. Saw it in the spring at work (TWR) and wanted to post pics as no-one believed it existed!!! Wasnt allowed to photograph it, obviously, and it looks even better in blue!

Oh nice, 16vs across the country rotting from the inside out! Mk2 escorts leak water through the heater matrix and the floor gets wet. Just incase you give a s**t!

Just about sums it up i think...

Only place i know in M keynes with 3 letters is MSD, and there not exactly renault people...!

not too hard to change it all, just grab a haynes manual and take your time. get another pair of hands whilst bleeding system. If you do the rears, youll have to get new bearings anyway, so get these pressed in. My local parts place did this for me for nothing. Ive had no m/cylinder problems...

Lofty, Got my front brake parts from http://www.RALDESWWW.RALDES.CO.UK Go to the blackmax icon on the left and it will load a photocopied page from their catalogue (bit hard to see in places). It will be easier to call them and get a catalogue sent to you i think. The GpN disks which are...

Just about sums it up i think...

Yep, get the GpN or drilled/grooved/both maxtorque disks and some mintex pads. Coupled with some goodridge hoses,good tyres and correct geometry, you will stop very very quickly! Then just replace your rears with standard parts so everything is new again.

If it has a date sticker on it and its out of date, chuck it, its pretty much worthless. If the needle is in the red on the guage also chuck it. Not worth re-charging them. But if its ok, then strap it in the car somewhere. Dont use velcro, make up a bracket to hold it firmly. Thats a...

Still have big slots cut in the engine cover. The bigger the slot the cooler the engine and exhausts can run but it upsets the aero, and ultimately, you go slower. Thats why quali engine covers have hardly any slots as you are only doing one or two flying laps, then everything cools off...

Yeah, but billies are in a differnt league. Ask anyone that has run them. I would just get the bilstein springs, dont worry about the dampers.

Depends how good the wire is your using. I only use type 55 militry spec wire. But this is expensive and hard to get hold of. So for this installation i used 20AWG which is rated at roughly 13 amps. Use about 18 AWG of off the shelf wire and youll be fine. Dont forget its only transmitting...

Check earth from battery to chassis and to gearbox. If the connections are dirty/corroded you will find funny things happening which you wount usually be able to predict. Turn everything on and drive again, if heater and wipers slow down i should think this is the problem. If these are fine...

Check earth from battery to chassis and to gearbox. If the connections are dirty/corroded you will find funny things happening which you wount usually be able to predict. Turn everything on and drive again, if heater and wipers slow down i should think this is the problem. If these are fine...

It wont be bouncy with new shockers provided you dont go too low. I think 20-25 MMs on the back is good. Although its nearly impossible to get the exact drop your afrer, as long as both sides are the same and your happy with it. You can always adjust it again, up or down. Once you have done it...

Lofty, Get some front springs, whichever manufacturer you like, i think they are all pretty much the same. Make sure they are NOT -55mm ones, these are far too low and damage other parts far too fast. Re-setting the torsion bar is easy, as long as you have the right tools. And another pair...

There is a previous thread on this. About 2 months ago i described how to do it. But here goes anyway. Find your fan switch, its in the radiaitor on the right hand side about a 3rd of the way up (a clio 16v rad anyway, not sure which rad youre running). Splice into each wire, of which there...

It all depends on cash, if you have plenty, change the box and only use the clio on the track and for road rallies. It will be useless (hard to drive) anywhere else... Then get another one to use on the road. Jobs a good un!

You can just do front springs and re-set the torsion bar. But if you get springs which are too low (im sure you not that silly) you will wear out the dampers, bushes and CV joints faster. But not necissarily straight away... If you feel you need to (and you can afford it; the time and the...

Blimey, not even gonna comment. Although...no, just cant do it.

Oh dear...

Get the bloody wheels off and have a good look, soon as. Could be as simlple as a loose wheel nut or as much as beam bushes. Possibly pads come loose, check retaining clips are still in place. Also check torque on caliper bolts and hub nuts. Could be caliper rubbing on inside of wheel, ive...

Dont drop it too low. I have just jacked up my clio 16v again as if you run it too low it smashes the shell up (and the dampers if they are standard/old). Oh, and knocks and rattles over anything higher than a painted line in the road. The AVO coilovers I have dont even allow standard ride...

Gotto get antifreeze that is OK for alloy radiators as the 16v one is alloy. Mustnt contain some kind of substance (i forget now). Mix it 50/50 with water and youll be fine.

Gotto get antifreeze that is OK for alloy radiators as the 16v one is alloy. Mustnt contain some kind of substance (i forget now). Mix it 50/50 with water and youll be fine.

Boys Boys Boys, You know the only escort to have is a Mk2. Sorry, Mk1s just dont cut it. Only for hysterical rallying and nothing else. Mk2s are the way forward. I might have a Mk1 with a type 49 shell and the warrior you mentioned, but those monaco spec arches (forests but 1.5" wider on...

A full service history, no accident damage (unless you get a very good price), check for rust on the rear arches and front of the rear quarter panels as you would on a 16v. Make sure cambelt has been done and higher millege ones have had a clutch. Regular oil changes, and lots of TLC Make sure...

Gotto be a Mk2, you know it makes sense. They get a bit cold and wet inside over the winter though...!

A full service history, no accident damage (unless you get a very good price), check for rust on the rear arches and front of the rear quarter panels as you would on a 16v. Make sure cambelt has been done and higher millege ones have had a clutch. Regular oil changes, and lots of TLC Make sure...

Drop everything in an ultrasonic tank. Comes up a treat...!