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so why did the do it then? was it to modernise the car, so you can say its "1.4 INJECTION"?! ;) is it easier general maintenince, better efficiency etc?

lol just got me thinking - what intake setup is better, the carbs on the 19 or the single pt inj on the RT? i suppose the carbs much easier to setup, ie no mapping etc but the inj sys more precise?

nice pics mate, followed the above link - need that flash on the valver head pic!

chris is your 1400 head tuned (ok perhaps a silly question seeign as thats your living, just wondered what kind of spec you have in it)

tho having said that i put on a Pi spring kit on a clio 2 and it was very tight after that.

duno how much it matters, but youre not suppose to only replace one side then drive it, uneven braking? ah pedantic, sound like mr haynes, shape of pads you just get by comparing them to the originals.

chris when you rotate the brake disc, looking at the shaft should it ever look like its moving in slightly an elliptical orbit? if not i take it thats an indication its buggered.

get it!sounds like relatively small things - wheel clinder, driveshaft seal, tho the inside things like ppl have said could be a b**ch to fix, my heater direction selector doesnt work and i reckon the whole dash will have to come off for that - but a project valver (if youre prepared for the...

apex IMO - search for topic "anyone here using APEX spriings?"

i see, its just the word streetrace often paints a v.diff picture in your head!

ah i see mat. seems a strane way to do it, but then what do i know, i can just about turn a tv on

matt any idea why there is different pin arrangement? surely because of the one touch mechanism in the drivers one? in that case could possibly rewire into it? unno just guessin g till i investigate a bit more..

lol i was thinking that... and how can being in a diff country mean streetracing isnt as dangerous?

the link dont work craig?

depends how worn the rears are - the bias is about 60-40 front-rear. not very good is only comparative compared to their performance at their optimum speeds, i.e. higher. also, will be a bit mroe sh*t than standard from cold, i remember the other day i almost ran into an old lady when my brakes...

yeah was thinking the same thing, prob could get one from renault but i bet theyd rape you, best off at a scrappies for a few quid.

dunno - parcel force? itl come, all in good time...

http://www.powerbulbs.comhttp://www.powerbulbs.com , do free silvervision sidelights (or did) with main lights.

second for gold.

lol rob i know how you feel mate, i have a banged up side of car which has been like it for 9 months now while i try to claim off the other driver. but in the last heavy snow / ice i lost control and kerbed my front drivers wheel on the kerb. hard. bent the subframe (only a bit though so...

lol just look at the post count...whos the daddie?;)

damn do you both have to post in the same thread, so confusing;)... daZZ, yeah pads as they get lower and more worn, they have a tendancy to crumble, and generally disentegrate so will break down more and give off more sh*t, and yeah the dust does seem to "eat" into alloys- you can get some...

cool, ill try that, one more thing, having completely air running through the pipe, not normal? or to be expected after changing cyclinders? cheers for your help mate.

forgot to mention, like i said before, the front bleeds fine, its just the rears.

neither do i! ok my words may have confused, what happens is that from the moment you open the nipple, you will get an initial flow of fluid, then it slows to a trickle, then large air bubbles start to come through the pipe, instead of any liquid. i.e. its completely air. this slowly moves along...

its not stiff atall, just ease it back, trial and error till you can slip the caliper over the new pads.

yeah ktrec is greenstuff / EBC

no i didnt, but my "catch bottle" is just a pint glass so its gonna be quite hard! ill try and make a hole in a jamjar or sommit to fix that one - the thing is, after a while no more air comes through or anything, my understanding is that you should keep it open till its clear unbroken...

ok ben, got the seal nice and tight this time! had to change both rear cylinders and shoes (and o/s brake pipe), put it all together and went to bleed them today...but the sh*tty damn kit doesnt seem to have enough pressure to push through properly...on the fronts its fine, comes out nicely, but...

no not hard atall, its alll logical. you have a haynes manual to follow?