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I use an engine hoist, JUST fits under a car (std height) so you dont have to put it on stands. Then remove the side mount and jack the hoist (attached to the cambelt side lifting eye) a couple of inches.

yes and the outlet for that is to the left (where the end of your arrow is), which connects to the cannistor.

That would be the thing to do really. Something I want to toy with The coding would need to be altered to allow PWM to control the cam timing, and it would need a cam position input. Personally i'd just put an after-market control system on tbh.

The one I sell includes DTA S40 ecu, jenvey taper bodies and accessories, airfilter and base plate, and custom short rad...£3000+vat so roughly £3500. This is fitted and mapped.

In all, fairness, he's just said about its 13k AUD for an ITB install. Here its about 3k GBP, so about 5k AUD.

My custom spec ones I could advertise as such.... Theres plenty of examples of companies selling branded kits... How many places sell "companies name" brake kits, comprising wilwood calipers and brembo discs? Or PAS removal kits using renault parts. People obviously like having the option...

What comprises a kit? A selection of parts to allow fitment to a specific instalation? I sell cam kits....I dont make cams.

Check the mounts, it'll be the downpipe hitting the subframe most likely.

Std is 25mm diam, so mcsa is 982mm^2 for the whole port. Theoretical calcs would say thats sufficient for about 195bhp (mcsa alone, not considering transition/turbulence/velocity etc).

No you don't need to drop engine. As said a specialist will have the right 'special' tools and will typically be cheaper. They are also going to familiar with the engine. Any competant mechanic with the correct tools could do it though, there's nothing particularly technically...

11% losses?

So what's it showing at the fly on the chip wizards r/r, 285-290bhp? What sort of boost is it running?

Check the back of the block, where the starter is, are there gussets cast into the block? Less definative indicators: f7r dipstick has a white dot on the top f7r has a smaller starter f7p has a higher rev limit f7p has an 82.00mm bore these are all assuming the engine is standard and...

fine on stock ecu, you sometimes get a high idle though, kinda 1100 rpm.

And yes, with a gearbox sat on the floor the diff can be out in 20mins. Obviously assembly would be longer, the point was to show it's not THAT difficult.

Facile Tigre. I am a Renault specialist, and I can do a gearbox change in 4hrs comfortably... drive in drive out...sorry if you dont believe that. I'm not saying fitting an LSD is a small job, but it certainly not as hard as you would like to imply.

I've taken a box out of a williams in 45mins before! Usually two hours not rushing....mk1 or mk2 RS/valver etc And yes, if it's taking you 7 hrs to get a box out then I'm not suprised you can't have the diff out quickly. It's really not that hard...!

Sorry, I was coming from a more competition / motorsport stand point, I guess in terms of compromise for road useres the Quaiffe is a better all rounder. However, if youve driven with both, you would sharp change your mind about which performs the task in hand better. For the record, the...

There are people who havehad grippers fitted for several years and not required servicing. ATB will act as an open diff if one of the drive wheel lifts.

It's only one wire for VVT, not gonna be that hard to buzz it out and see what output channel it's on.

The vacuum is "used" when you press the brake pedal. The times when the engine is running under low throttle or on over run, give enough of a vacuum to keep the servo in near constant vacuum.

They have a one way valve built into the servo as std. I've done a couple of turbo instals and not used a second one way valve, they've been good for a bar or so of pressure.

could be an injector drawing in air, could be the turbo itself, could be the fuel pump. Is there a managment light on aswell? Any mechanical noise?

Its a F7R 714 Megane engine.

FFS! USE ENGINEERS BLUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You put the blue on the head, clamp up the lower section once youve index marked it, and it leaves a template for you to work to. OR Mark it up using the oe gasket and keep to just under a mm away from it (this is fine if you're used to...

Dont match the the gasket on the head 'cos the gasket is larger than the port.

Like I said, its all in my first post. You said you were an engineer, I assumed you would have some engineers blue. Where in Carlisle do you work?

The one at the top of this thread mate.

It's all in my first post ;)

There's not much to do a guide on tbh, not on the matching side anyway...its pretty self explanitary? There's a bit of port work to be done further into the tract, reshaping, but that's my preference and works well.