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The best bet and cheapest option is to buy lengths of braided hose and the appropriate threaded unions and have them swaged together by a hydraulics place. This is alot more of a robust set-up than Aero-quip unions, and works out at about a third the cost.
It all depends on the (limited) room...
They were Renault only from last time I looked a few months, not aware of that changing since then.
But if you can get them for 80$ per cylinder thats cheap....
I disagree tbh, from experience, for little odds and bobs, blowing in panels/repairs/cam covers etc etc you wont go wrong with the equipment ive listed.
Yes of course theres a massive different doing it diy for little bits, and doing whole vehicles as a business----hence me saying horses for...
dunno, I paid £400ish for mine second hand.
Buts thats a 200-250l tank & decent sized pump.
I guess by cheapo you mean the little 50l things? I wouldnt bother personally.
Machine mart do "cheapy" gravity fed guns for about £40-50 iirc. I bought one 3/4 years ago with the intention of upgrading, but in all honesty I still use it..its very good.
Im not a professional paint shop or anything, so its horses for courses, but so long as you keep it clean you wont go...
Yeah I know what you were reffering to, im just lost as to how its applicable here?
Unless like you say, he spends out ££££ for a completel new control system/logger/display.
Which is 1) beyond what he needs 2) not what he's asking for.
Easiest option if he's wanting to spend the ~£500 on...
Yes, you get alot better finnish with a spray gun than with rattle cans---even the "expensive" ones body shops make up for you.
Compressor
Spray gun
Inline air-dryer (not essential for one offs' but i'd get one if you were doing major work)
then paint/thinners/lacquer/hardner----depends...
Head off, valves out, check for cracks in the guides on the port side of the head.
If they are cracked, you'll need them pressed out and new ones pressed in.
If you get stuck my email is info@ap-developments.co this is the type of work I do.
Saying all this, might be easier just to swap...
If the cam belt snapped, then it started doing it, I would guarantee you'll have a cracked guide or two (from the bent valves).
So its head rebuild time.
Doing a compression test isnt very indicative of poor oil control ring condition. At the end iof the day, you could have a cracked oil ring, yet the top and second ring will still allow normal compression.
Does it chuck out a nice puff of smoke on start up after a couple of days standing...
I should have some 172 and 182 inlets back in this week, which I can modify and have sent out within 2 working days.
email me if your intrested info@ap-developments.com
yeah, crank over with the crank sensor disconnected for say 30seconds.
The when its started keep it at a high idle for maybe 10mins, just to keep pressure up so as to ensure good oil supply is achieved to the head.
Give it a hundred miles and change oil/filter.
Dont take offence mate, im trying to save you wrecking your head/cars performance. The terminology you are using implies you have no experience with flow/performance---again, dont take offence to that, not many people do.
My point is, I really wouldnt attack it unless you have experience in...