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If its done well, you WILL see a gain...

check the ignition values at 0 load for 0-1000rpm, set them all the same innitially. Do the same with the fuelling, increase it a little bit, the revs will likely pick up and the inlet backfiring will stop. If the cams are quite wild you will likely have to tweak each ign site around idle...

Looks like a manufacturing fault to me. If there had been any wiping/coil bound issues you usually see on the lobe where they have picked up. Odd, never seen this before.

F4R cams: in--269* / 11.25mm lift ex--256* / 10.25 The F4R in dephased are 0.4mm lift at tdc on inlet, 1.55mm on exhaust F7R turbo cams: in--258* / 10.65mm ex--268* / 9.3mm inlet 1.55mm at tdc ex 0.6mm at tdc. Quite different specs and very different timing figures. .

No, add more fuel via the ecu software. What rpm is it idling at? If youve been adjusting the base idle, you should also re-calibrate the TPS. Have you got a lambda gauge?

Too lean at idle.

How can you say its utter rubbish, THEN go on to say your motto is "fit and forget"? You obviously follow my logic! My point is, if your going to do it, do it right. That means fitting forged pistons and altering the cam spec is the way to best results when fitting a turbocharger to these...

Why cant you? Everything has its limit, naturally....but yes, you can "just" fit ITB's and calibrate the fuelling/ignition to suit, and it will make more power. The thing with itb's is the torque increase everywhere throughout the rev-range....so no mattter where you are rpm wise, there is...

There are usage, ie if you do under a certain ammount then its tax free. Have a shot on google, that will bring all the details up. Long term the "risks" of actually doing it are gunked up injectors/pump/etc. The best/cleanest way if you can be arsed is to seperate the veg oil and make your...

Keep them. They help reduce piston crown temps.

the lip of thermostat should be inside the rubber seal mate.

Or just as/more likely is the donor shell was fitted with the id from a 1.2 which was taken from a car being broken for spares....not an uncommon practice when trying to get a race car on the road.

forgot to say, the followers can be modified to be solid, then use lash caps to adjust lash. Springs are also required for the '551's.

As for the cams/op, as danny has said they are designated for mechanical followers. Since managment isnt an issue they will run fine, and the forged pistons will allow greater valve/piston clearance also. You can get away with running a "solids" grind on hyrdo's, as the opening ramp tends to...

The graph shown looks more like interference with the rpm pick-up for the dyno itself... maybe? Dyno's should use an overall drive ratio, i.e the ratio between the roller and the crankshaft, so as to determine a "correct" flywheel torque figure, from which a power figure is calculated. This...

LOL perfect tbh

Actually...just noticed your in workington... try Jonathon at JDM Dyno (you'll have to google it for the number, my phone is knackered). He's based on kirkbride airfield.

Yes, if you fancy a drive to swansea :)

I think it depends on the age of the engine...the engine code prefix is the same e.g k4m or whatever, but the newer engines (about 04 onwards) have the starter on the front. Not sure on specific code suffix's or what have you, this is just what Ive noticed.

ah you'll need a valver box then. If you use the valver topmount it should bolt up to the chassis fine.

Aye keep your original gearbox for ease of mounting etc. You will need the rad/fan and hoses aswell from a valver.

Yes put it in gear and use brake. Or have someone put a prybar between the flywheel ring-gear and the gearbox casing.

F4R is 93mm, K4M is 80.5mm

yours is a 1.6....shorter stroke....less stress on rods and bolts for the same rpm. and I tend to disagree, logic being " if the engine is apart now, may aswell spend the extra few hundred to make it fully safe for any future mods". this is what I tend to advise on non-standard builds, where...

Well im not personally aware of any of the "cheap rods" failing on the Renault engines, or any for that matter...be it boost or rpm related....so we cant really start comparing destruction test results easily. They do what they say on the tin, they measure up well, and they take any abuse Ive...

Horses for courses really, centrifugal chargers like the rotrex are better suited to ~standard Cr engines, so they are ideal for the bolt-on market.

Inlets should be matched exactly to the head. The reason why you shouldnt use the inlet gasket as a template is because its larger than the port itself, so using this will end up with the manifold larger than the port, which can make things worse than standard.

What grade did you use?

Yeah Pirtek are pretty good for bits like that.

if its too long,cut the ferrel off, remove the union, cut the hose to required length, then take it to a hydraulics place and get them to re-swage it?