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TuRD bodykit or not, I cant say its the prettiest of things.

My eyes are burning....

I done one for a customer a couple of years back. Went well. Just rebuilt the engine with forged pistons, larger turbo etc, will be a monster...

lol

Fit a 2.0 16v turbo from a coupe, job done :p

Standard...too many haters.

Its not just about the INNITIAL outlay, consider in 6-12months time when he/if he wants more performance from the engine, this can be more easily be obtained as any further modifications can calibrated for with massive ease now, and reduced costs. aside from that, 3-4k isnt a bad price for...

The minimum cross sectional area is in each runner of the port (past the divider). This is ultimately what limits peak power ability. This on a standard head is smaller than a 40mm throttle. 40mm throttles arent overly small on the scheme of things, they will likely make more torque lower...

you can tap the casing to take the diff retainer plate, no need to swap diffs etc. rebuild will typically cost £350.

I use sealey ones, not sure on weight, but ive got a few different ones---tripod type and 4 wheel type...all are suitable. You can by cheaper equivalents, which im 99.99% confident come from the same factory, from machine mart!

Filter oil from a motoX shop is probably cheaper and more easily available. Or if you are feeling a bit pov, 2stroke premix oil is usable.

As with most mass produced components, cost versus output is most important, so there is usually a massive compromise. The standard renault cranks arent that bad for steady state primary balance, and thats "good enough" as far as the R&D team would be concerned. Why cant you do your final...

Pretty much, its a case of balancing primary forces on all planes so that there is reduced vibration...this si done by typically drilling/grinding areas to achieve the desired effect. However is doesnt take into account secondary forces, crank flex/whip, heat distortion etc. I.e its fine...

I can have cranks dynamically balanced, if you want to send the crank/pulleys/clutch cover down to me. Its £125. I do it on 90% of my engine builds for customers, but its more out of matter of course...i.e. whilst the crank is being ground may aswell do it, as I tend not to charge for it. But...

For the OP...no point in knife endging a crankshafts leading edge. Read any basic sources on aerodynamics, you will quickly find the most aero-dynamic shape is a tear-drop, so it follows that making a knife edge isnt going to reduce drag. Knife-edging the trailing-edge would theoretically be...

If you have done lots of power runs, it could be a build up of carbon monoxide in the dyno cell/room robbing power, or as Dan says increased intake temps (maybe down to the same reason--alot of heat soak after lots of runs).

gets some engineers blue and mark up the two faces. then match and finnish on say a 50grit.

Just to give you an idea of how many "variaations" or combinations of compressor/turbin etrim, diameters etc etc: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/turbo_comparison_sheet.htm

There is a definate gain when matching RS inlets. And there is also work to be done matching the two sections of the 197 inlets....

dont turn it over by the cam pulleys! get a socket on the crank pulley bolt. what were the piston rings like?

Seen as the engine is in bits, the most sensible thing to do is just rebuild it, replace everything, and check everything is as it should be. Not much point in second guessing when its all apart anyway. To check the rings, you need to remove the pistons. You simply cant tell if they are...

The fact it is 105ron means very little. It has a calorific value about 30% less than petrol, I doubt it would run on a map set-up for petrol.

No airflow meter.

I think they are 14mm metric fine, x 20mm. No shoulder, full thread.

It purely depends on the time at which you order, as stock is constantly changing depending on what ive had in and what Ive sent out. But if you give me say a weeks notice, then I can get in a set if I havnt already got them.

Of course there can be a massive differences between companies...thats why some people see good gains, and some people dont. Yet its always the castings which seem to get the blame! Mine are £150+vat on receipt of std items, or £250+vat to buy outright (£100 of which can be refunded on...

Stock engines may well take extra power on stock internals, but this doesnt account for condition and wear. If his engines is worn, then obviosuly it would be advisable to rebuild it. Chances are it isnt that bad, but if your thinking of long term power increases, i.e forged pistons etc etc...

The springs themselves will be ok to around 8500rpm, with std valves. They are however limited to about 11.4/11.5mm lift depending on the casting. It is also not advisable to take hydro's past 8000rpm. Std Rods/bolts/pistons are seamingly ok to 8000rpm also. They do respond well to cams...

detonation with regards to ignition timing, is caused by too much advance. Pinking is a longstanding garage term for detonation. I'd hazard a guess the map they have sent you will be ok, thats if the spec is the same and it was a good example (of mapping) in the first place.

Not off the shelf. But there are companies who will make valves to your gemoetry/design. Stainless valves are about £25 per piece, titanium about £75 per piece.