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The cheaper alternatives don't work okay. Just because its squeezed the terminal doesn't mean it's a good crimp! Proper ones are expensive because they are calibrated to apply exactly the correct amount of force when crimping - you can't exactly calibrate a pair of pliers which is what the cheap...

Yes that's how much a reasonable crimp tool will cost. The Dies need to be very accurate and the ratchet set correctly to apply an even clamping load and ensure the stability of the crimp. My AS crimping tools were £600!! The tool you've posted above will probably crimp them well enough...

You've only got a single point of reference for the ECU to determine load hence if that fails any additional air mass delivered won't be fueled for! Cheers M

Data logging most definately 'FTW' in this situation as Dan appears to be able to reproduce the fault consistantly. Proper logging session will show what the ECU is seeing from the sensors under various transients and what its doing in response. This one appears to be more mechanical failure...

Google Torrents. Cheers M

Torrents more than likely. Cheers M

You want Autodata - chances are you can download it from some slightly dodgy sites. Cheers M

Solder has no place on a car unless its on a PCB!! The connectors are called junior timers. You need a 2 Pin female JT connector. The pins can be crimped with a standard timer/amp crimping tool or worst case a pair of pliers if you are very careful - note the pliered crimp won't be anywhere...

Very likely. I'm quite handy with these car things........ ;) Cheers M

Nowt wrong with them IMHO. I've spoken with them a few times about Pectel stuff when they've been stuck and they seem a decent bunch. Cheers M

Brilliant to see that! Cheers M

Nope Bilsteins on the Cup cars. Cheers M

Rear HEGO - heating circuit has failed. i.e. rear lambda. Cheers M

Because Mark_One mentioned using different ECU's to drive a dash via CAN and I responded to his post. You then responded to my post. You can see this if you scroll up and read down. Personaly I fail to see why responding to Marks post is an issue? Thread tangent yes, related one? I think so...

80's go to 110bhp'ish no problem. 115bhp might be a bit optimisitic but possible. Decent increase in torque as well!! Cheers M

I was speaking more regarding the interface box/es Race Technology use and alternatives to a Dash2 where extra interfaces/boxes aren't required. For a valver any reasonable aftermarket/motorsport dash will have at least 8 analogue inputs on it which can be used as well as or in place of CAN or...

It's still a box, it's still two more sets of connectors and its still an additional failure point! Dash2 is cheap but when you start adding in what you need to get data off an ECU and log it it suddenly gets quite expensive. £500 for the dash, £500 for a DL1, £80 - £100 for the interface box...

You flash git Kev ;-) Looks brilliant - I see the cage is still in! :-D Cheers M

Or a Typhoon, or a Motec etc. etc. CAN is a much nicer way to do things if you are going to make use of the features it offers. Worth noting though that the Dash2 requires an ECU interface box for RS232 or CAN so if you intend to use that dash you're always going to have to package another...

Oil control rings are the lower ring in the ring pack on the piston i.e. in the bottom end, not in the head. If you replace the head yourself you will also need the Renault timing tools to ensure the cam timing is correct when building the cam drive side of things back up. Cheers M

That's roughly 2 to 3 times the amount of oil consumption I'd consider normal for a very hard driven F4R - as such its a fairly decent certainty that its broken. Stem seals are a good possibility if there are no external leaks. It's head off to do it and you may as well have a the seats recut...

You'd probably find one inside an old 172 Cup racer ;-) To be honest mate no idea. I only deal with the newer stuff and I don't think R-Sport have any Mk2 spares left. Be worth giving them a bell and asking who they sold it all to though - prob the best chance of tracking one down. Cheers M

£250 - prob quite a lot less. Depends how much time they spend blasting etc. Powder coat should be a quick job to be honest mate. The cage is only painted at the moment so you could get in with the Nitromors and Jetwash if you want. Cheers M

Just give me a bell as and when mate. More than happy to help you out ;-) Cheers M

Front cage defo not needed LOL - I think Kevs plan is to go as far down the race car for the road route as possible without totally ruining the useability ;-) Plus to get the front cage into a road car its dash out or remove the dash bar from the cage.... which compromises the front cage section...

Nigh on 2K's worth of cage Kev ;-) Plan is for Kev to get his local Metal dude to grind the front half connectors off then powder coat it along with welding in the risers for the cage to bolt to forming a proper rear cage. It picks up the rear damper points as per the Cup Racer as well so...

Do you mean you were bouncing it off the limiter without the car moving? If so the rev limit will be lower to stop you rattling the engine off the limiter and causing damage. Don't rev an engine to the limiter when its not under load. Cheers M

Thats on a standard engine with Cams and an Omex 600? FWIW My cup on CAT428's with Sirius engine control returns 35 - 37mpg and makes 190 beans give or take between 7300 and 7600RPM. Cheers M

Unfortunately that's what you have to spend though. Tuning NA engines which produce nigh on 100bhp/litre is not a cheap operation. I'd say £2K for 20bhp is pretty cheap actualy at this level. If you think you can chuck some 'none mild' cams in then forget it, you'll need to do a lot of work...

When's it out Kev?.......... ;-) Stage 2 a'brewing and that will really see it do some damage. Cage in + secret mods - we going for front cover goodness? Off to Tesco tonight to see if they have PFC! Cheers M