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I've used them on my old M5. Pretty decent tyre but like with any cheap tyre the wear rate is higher but thats the offset of having grip. They did go through a faze of having golf balls pop out on the sidewalls but I never had such an issue.

Been busy with the car but with all the small bits. When I fitted the throttle cable I found the pedal to be too heavy. The Honda throttle wheel is smaller in diameter compared to the Clio one. So adapter the Honda throttle body to accept the Clio wheel and spring so it feels like normal on...

Please say the HKS livery was one of them!

Not a huge amount of progress. Been faffing tbh as it's at the point where it needs to be dropped on its wheels and sent over to have the exhaust chopped to meet the manifold. Managed to get the shafts built up. Also fitted the oil temp into the sump plug and wired it up. Blasted the...

Satchell engineering made my shafts. I'll try the universal first as the CV boot for the Honda inners fits nice and snug to the shaft so it's just the outers that need sorting out for mine. If the universal fails I'll message you for the ones you used, thank you :)

The new shafts turned up. Managed to get new skf CV joints for the shaft. Was going to build them up but noticed the new shafts diameter is slightly smaller than a standard Clio one so the CV boot would be slack around it. Going to order some universal ones and fit them on instead. So...

Made a new power steering feed line out of PTFE hose. It's just about strong enough to hold the psi the pump outputs. Fitted it up and chucked a bit of nimbus heat shield on, will have to take it off as forgot I haven't done the throttle cable yet 🤦🏼‍♂️ Oil cooler lines are done as well...

Internals of a electric steering rack

Starting with the driveshafts. Easy way I found out was the Honda shafts are solid and the Clio ones are hollow. If you cut the Honda one before the CV boot attaches on the shaft it slides perfectly inside the Clio one. So cut the Clio one up, slide Honda shaft inside, bolt to car and with the...

Started with building the subframe up. New drivers rear bush fitted and 172 steering rack. Still had to bend one of the pipes on the rack but less hassle than the valver rack plus less turns lock to lock is always a plus. Fitted the new oil cooler. Clutch line fitted and gear cables...

Finally got the gear shifter cables sorted. Went with the racing circuits versions made to my length. The ends they use didn't really work with my setup. So there was huge play on the shifter. So ended up turning down the bolts on the gearshifter to accept a M6 rose joint and also filing...

Heat wrapped the manifold. Need to check the flange is flat before bolting it up tho. Front crash, radiator support bar is now painted and fitted. Pedal box fitted and just bent the hardlines around the master cylinder. Wired up the bus bar for the battery cable, interior cable and...

Thank you for the offer but I'm going to stick with the 182 manifold for now. Managed to finally get the clutch pedal working. Version 1 worked lovely. Bolted it up on the car and the steering shaft just went directly in its path so that failed. Version 2 basically a m8 rod bent into...

Here's me showing its I can unbolt it for each front end access. Also I badly need a new front bumper 🙈. Ordered a new reproduction one so hopefully it's decent. The bar also supports the bumper so this is with nothing bolted bumper wise and it sits quite well.

Been a while since I've worked on this been flat out in work 🙄. So started with capping off the ends of the front slam panel. Bar will sit like so on each end. Plugged up the ends of the bar with captive nuts so it bolts on and off. Radiator on, in two minds if it needs all 4...

I think if I had to keep the rad in the stock position I'd be knackered with the outlet pipe 😬. With the front cross member chopped out its given me a lot more freedom but I don't want to go too far forward or ill be chopping the front bumper grill out which I don't want to do on the new bumper...

Started on the pedal box with the civic master cylinder. It has a really annoying bolt spacing so had to bring one of the bolts in real close to it. This is the angle it sits at, slight canter but enough to be fine. The support brace is in the way of where the master cylinder is...

That is the preferred route I'd like to take just couldn't get hold of them. I'll give it a few more goes to get into contact with them.

I hope it flows enough as it the same one I have 😆. ITG say its good for 480hp just hope its not too much of a restriction in N/A applications. Also cable-tec are the company my mate used to shorten the gear shifter cables. Im going to source some ktuned or hybrid racing cables and send them in...

If you don't love it the car will try and kill you 😂

Still no rad as it was lost in the post 🤦🏼‍♂️. So been finishing off the manifold by welding a 3" flare and then 3" flange to suit my exhaust Next up cut out a plate to plug the hole where the original shifter would live. Welded it up and ground the welds back Chucked a coat or two...

Bit of a delay been to the Nurburgring and North Wales the last week. So back on to the manifold Mocked it up started welding around and forgot I don't have the 172 ARB fitted 🤦🏼‍♂️. Fitted it, low and behold it hits the ARB 😂. Did another cut further down the manifold on where it's 2...

So today started with the exhaust manifold. I'm using a standard 182 manifold like my mate had done. With the engine being sat so low it's in near enough the same position as the f4r sits which means I it's in theory a flange swap away from fitting. Chopped the flange off which was hard...

With the engine back in Started next with plonking the engine loom on. Next up was feeding the brown and white plugs on the Renault loom back up inside by the glovebox as that's where the ECU is going to live. The ECU will tap into the brown and white plug for stuff such as starter...

Through the art of seam sealer and some paint no one will ever see my welding 😂

So done some strengthening to the chassis rail and subframe. There's a triangle bar welded against the chassis rail on the other side too to spread the load down the rail between the notch too. Doesn't budge so guess it's working now. Added a notch in the drivers chassis rail to ease...

Have you seen racing circuits offer 100mm shorter than dc5 length cables. https://racingcircuits.co.uk/collections/k-swap/products/k-swap-shifter-cables I think I'm going to go down that route or get them shortened like my mate did by a company in the UK. Can find out who it was if you want?

Some of the goodies I've bought for the car are ktuned pro shifter Kpro ECU Big itg carbon filter. My mates k20 is an open cone filter and oh my days is it loud on the induction noise to the point it gave me a headache on the trackday! So definitely wanted something that was enclosed...

On the gearbox side the plate in the kit just doesn't match a MK1 chassis rail at all. Wrong shape, thickness, etc. So I just got some 3mm steel and started welding up some pieces together. With the mount made can see the diff on the k20 sits near enough the same place as on a jc5...

Didn't like the red fuel rail so took that off sanded it down and left it as bare aluminium. And also bought a new coilpack cover for the engine. Bought a ktuned side pulley kit to reduce the height of the engine as the top pulley can be high. Plus the subframe on the MK1s mean you...