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The spare track car was a k20 swapped Mk1 Clio 😁.
It was flying around track all day and was faultless until I broke the clutch pedal but that was expected as it was a bit of a home brew affair.
I was hooked and so the path of building my own k20 Clio started 😁.
Bought a k20 with TDI...
It's been a few years since I've really played with this car so back story. Owned the Clio for about 3 years and in usual turbo Clio style it kept on breaking so threw a tantrum and bought a BMW M5.
Had a E39 M5 that was a boss did a fair few trackdays and nurburgring trips in that car, smashed...
I'm using a micrometer for the journals. Like you said measuring at 3 points. The ovality was next to nothing on them.
Conrods I'm using a cmm machine at the moment. All torqued down to spec everytime.
I'll use a bore mic for the main journals.
I've ordered new plain nothing fancy bearings...
Hi,
I'm rebuilding my engine and am currently measuring all of the clearances.
I'm using king racing bearings and catcam rods.
I've measured the crank at 1.88995"
The conrod without bearing at 2.0313"
The conrod with bearing at 1.8933"
giving me a clearance of 0.00335" which is way higher...
Made 400hp. (the e39 model) Could of been a bit more seeing as it has headers etc done to it but happy it has the stock power after 127k on it still. Seeing as most make around 380hp.
Picked the car up yesterday from efi parts.
Very pleased with the results. 270hp and 260ft/lb at 1bar of boost. Drives soo nice, going to be perfect for on track with the midrange torque it has.
You need a good surface finish for MLS head gaskets. 50RA or less.
They can be reused if in working condition. Whats wrong with yours? Is the head flat?
Most of the boost piping is done. Just need to order a few more in.... Spent so much on silicone bends.
The hole I cut is RAF style but I have f**k all tools here for that s**t.
Not long left till its running again!
Engine in, most of it is hooked up not long till it's running.
Damn its tight by the bulkhead! Also struggling to do the intercooler pipe work as I've smoothed one of the holes most of the others use.
I have to say going boost is expensive :(. Doubled my budget already!
Head stripped down for new valve stem seals and a light skim for the mls head gasket.
Around 260-280hp Totally depends on the turbo really.
Done a bit more today.
Engine out
Im proper rusty. Bent the gear linkage and bent the speedo cable. Need to get my game on again!
Respray yours a non original colour :). You've started with polishing and having different colours in the engine bay so you might as well carry on to the outside.
Next story of this cars life.
Boost!!!
In typical me fashion. This will be done on a masively low budget.
I didnt get any of these for retail prices even though they're all brand new bar the turbo ;)
Valvers use m8x1 bolts on the standard beam. The bolts are too short to re-use.
172 use 3 m10x1.5 and 1 m8x1.25 thread.
So you do as matt said. But then drill out all 4 holes to 8.5mm and tap in a m10x1.5 thread into the beam.
And also drill out the fourth hole on the stub axle bigger to...
Opened the mongoose exhaust to find it has nothing
Restuffed
Welded back up
Sounds much better now!!
Compression tested it. Came back at 190-200 psi over all 4 cylinders! Can't wait for mapping.
Bought this a while ago
Resprayed bonnet vent satin black
Sunk the battery into the boot.
172 stub axle modification
Valver setup
172 setup
Wired in the megasquirts loom ready for mapping
Peugeot 406 v6 master cylinder to go with the 172 front brakes I've now added.