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Fitting the tool to the car it fouls on the dephaser of the inlet CAM as in photos - I note Fred also has an 1801 tool. As it can only locate on the CAM casing stud and the head cowl over the CAMs I cant see how I can misalign it? So any help here would be great. cheers

Yes I got a Laser kit for the cam setting and that comes with the pin. Only question I have is on the tension pulley I assume that you turn to align the marks, turn the engine on the exhaust cam 6times and then recheck that it is still aligned as is the timing. Best illustration is in the...

On the ticket as 7711381801 and £39.98 plus vat

in the end brought the revised tool MOT1801 (now comes with the 1509 -01 cog) from Renault. Many thanks for the advice ta.

Laser do a cam setting tool thats fine and there are several on Ebay - the CAM tool OEM part number MOT1509 you need to go to Renault as the only cam tool Laser do is a holding tool for the smaller engines. I am looking for the latter tool and I am also speaking to Renault as I have paid £510...

Pop down the exhaust is either fuel in exhaust due to ignition issue (low risk of engine damage)- or timing way out (risk of engine damage) either way you dont want to keep turning it over. Get the timing tools out and reset it to the manual - or get the bloke back

will do thanks. Out of interest how much to they cost to buy?

anyone close to Bristol willing to loan or hire the tool to lock the cam pulley wheels? Or is there a company that I can hire one from?:) Tools companies only make a timing holding tool and it wont be strong enough to undo the bolts.

you can install the cams (blued up) and fit a different cover tighten it down and check for mismatch. If you see any then you have a problem as the hydrodynamic pressure build up that the rotating cam journal creates will break down and the cam will rub, overheat and then sieze. Good idea to...

You shouldnt use due to the line boring but if you blue it up the modern machining should make it pretty close if on a worn say 60K engine - agree it is a risk though (Im going to do it on a 172)

Is it a Renault sealant or something you can get in Halfords or an Aoto shop?

Auxilary belt does a lot of work thats why it wears out by 36K My cam/aux belt was changed out by a main dealer in the 40K's miles now at 65K a 2 inch peice of frayed belt has got between the crank pulley and the cambelt which has caused the belt to ride one tooth and hence destroyed my valves...

Good call - did the compression test nought! Turned over well and sounded OK no odd noises Head off (once I got an E14 torx on it) and yes indeed all intake valves bent. No marks on exhaust but they look in the picture like they have a slight bend. Belt was still intact but one slipped crank...

Im a bit lazy - used a 4mm bar to get TDC - where is the plug not easy to see in the street...

After much wet weather (I am doing the job in the street) I have found the root cause - the auxilary belt broke up and a small piece went between the cambelt and crank pulley which allowed the cambelt to ride over the crank pulley - see pic 1 & 3. Pic 2 is the bits pulled out on the valance -...

What are the differences in the cylinder heads from a 2001 172 clio and 182? Can I fit a 182 without doing any tweaking?

when you say free floating I understand that the pulleys are all free until the engine is set (TDC tool and cam alignment ) and then you clamp the pulleys to the crankshaft and the camshafts so the pulleys become fixed - sorry for being thick but at some point there needs to be a positive lock...

Valves do flex and are ductile - question is if it jumped a crank tooth cos the auzilliary belt lifted it and now its 18 degrees out is that enough to bend the valve - the hand crank feels the valve but it is not solid ie I believe I could hand crank it through - starter also would do it - I was...

Big thanks for all the help - really understand what to do now!:) Cambelt and tensioners all good and the belt tension is also OK - however the accessory belt has moved one rib loser to the engine and is looser than I think it should be - its also breaking up and I found a piece of twine...

How can I find the engine number of my car? Plate by door says CB1C but which series? CB1C F4R-732 2.0 16V 172 7701473357 CLIO II CB1C JB5-089 2.0 16V 172 7701706102 CLIO II Car is Belgium import 2001 - so made in 2000?

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=354553&page=3&highlight=snapped this is where the £4600 'estimate' was found. Thanks for the tool advice - how does the tensioner work - do you need a spring gauge?

Im going to remove the cambelt cover and have a look - high costs of getting the work done (£4500 to fix a snapped belt!) plus the fact that I used to work as a fitter has prompted this decison -I will post pics along the way and let the community know how easy or difficult the job turns out...

any chance of a photo of what the tools look like?

172, year 2001, noise from cambelt end - probably a tensioner, cambelt OK but engine wont start. Diagnostic is the belt has slipped possibly due to the tensioner failing or getting loose (was changed at 35K by a main dealer - car now at 66K mls) So was going to check out and change the belt -...

I too have a rumble on a 2001 172 - it does sound like a bearing and the frequency is at the car speed - engine revs make no difference drive or freewheeling. Last year a Van hit my offside wheel (drove off £900 bill) and bent a track rod (inner wheel was against the curb)- so I have a year...

My 172 was fine in every way during a radiator change then 5 seconds after a start and shut down - went to turn the key and the lights dimmed followed by weird clicking noises from relays and warning lights flashing. Battery voltage over 12 but dropped to 3V on starting. Battery shot! (like...

I checked out the battery voltage and it came out good at 12.46 volts. Connected up a seperate negative to to the engine. Still nothing. Checked voltage during cranking and it was 2 volts. Symptons were - Key turned and the warning lights went dull like a short. Following that the warning...

I changed out a radiator and desconnected the negative. When I put it back the car would not start. Had 12.46 volts at the battery. Turned the key and the warning lights went dull like a short. Following that the warning lights flashed. Problem was the battery - Put your lights in full and...

Im having the same problem - changed a radiator, removed negative terminal on it own (bit worried about the computer) and went to start it engaged and then nothing - now I either get a click (especially if I roll the car in third - unengage the motor) or I get the dash lights dimming as though...

Begun. Removed grill which is two torx screws in the louvres and the end pull out of the fixing. Lower valance is torx in the grill plus a bolt and tie wrap under the wing (easier if wheels removed). One connextion for the lower spot lights. Next peice is the cross body peice with the bonnet...