Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Does anyone know where all the earth points are on a ph1 Clio.
The ones i know of are the main one to chassis leg and the battery tray to chassis
Are there anymore ?
cheers
Well i found out that pressing the key at the same time as turning it usually over rides the issue..................................till this morning when it wont now start at all and just gives a clicking noise from the engine so guessing a dirty earth contact, alternator or starter. Battery...
But it does start, it just cuts out again before it has a chance to idle.
If it was the immobiliser then surely it would just turn over and not fire up?
I havent used the car for over a week and tried to start it this morning and it was being worse than ever so gonna pop down to the local...
I ended up taking it to a bodyshop mate.
The guy had a lot of hassle getting the pins to shift. Bit of a nightmare apparently.
Theres no special tools so hitting it out is the only way
Spare keys the same :( - Yes the light flashes repeatedly and the stop light stays lit but the serv light is out.
Is it normal for the car to even start with a immobiliser issue?. I thought the idea was it cuts the supply to the fuel pump thus wouldnt prime so would only turn over but not...
Had thought about that too mate but wouldnt have thought it would start at all? Might be wrong tho
Is the light between the serv and stop the immobiliser light?
Got a problem with the ph1 which started about a week ago.
90% of the time, whenever i start it, it fires into life then cuts out. The light between the serv and stop lights flashes repeatedly.
Whenever it starts playing up it also flashes repeatedly when only the ignition is on.
After...
Take drivers side wheel off and arch liner. Undo cable at TB, Undo cable at throttle pedal, pull back bulkhead sound deadening for access when needed. Might take a strong tug to withdraw cable from bulkhead but the rest is simple re-routing.
Forgot to say for finding where the cable goes .Sit...
I doubt you'd find a cheaper to run hot hatch vs performance in petrol form. Loads cheaper to run than a Type R say.
Should be getting anything between mid 30 to 40's mpg on ''normal'' driving.
Ideally buy one with the belts already done as it saves a fair chunk of cash. Make sure its done...
Someone who's done this conversion posted up years back it stood them at 8k iirc. Thats a guy who knows his stuff, done it himself and modded to 400+
To get a company to do the fabrication and fit would be mega bucks and thats before tuning. Good conversion if you can do it yourself tho...
Cost you about 10k + i reckon, to get someone to do this and take it to 400. Would need to be a home brew special and even then its not going to be cheap and all in the name of reliability.
Far easier just lumping a charger or turbo on what you have.
Theres a lad with a R5 running over...
Jenvy used to have them on their website. Not sure if there any good etc etc
IIRC they were / are a slightly bigger port? You'd need to check their site tho mate. Think a lad on here called Stoodie? used to have one
Would you call a S1 RS turbo a classic?
Its not really excellent at anything but prices for these are sky high and climbing even tho their not rare and production was well over a ph1 172 iirc?
Maybe the defenition of what makes a car classic is more about demand ?
Only 1300 officially imported by Renault into the UK, thats 13 hundred not thousand. (excluding car supermarkets)
Give it a few more years and they'll be getting hard to come by.
BHP quotes are usually peak. Remember its right across the rev range you want the gains.
I'd say 15 bhp would be a struggle with those mods. You'd need to ask a few tuners tho