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Have you by any chance got a corrogated hose running from the fog to the airbox with about 7 different angles in it at various points? Cheers M

Even the most minute amounts will spread when heated. It's not worth it. 3M produce a self adhesive rubber pad backing which'll do the same job without risking brake contamination. Or just accept the fact that a brake pad with "Motorsport Use Only" stamped on the box will probably squeal...

As I said you should never copper grease pads or any other brake component. Modern brake components run at very high temperatures and copper grease is not thermaly stable. When heated it will spread and it will make its way onto the pad face/disc. At best this'll knacker the pads and reduce...

Make sure he's got the proper tools to lock the pulleys and set the cam timing. Just cause he teaches doesn't mean he's any good ;-) Cheers M

You should never copper grease pads or any other brake component. They will squeal as they build up a layer of material on the disc surface. Trade off for better brake performance is noise and wear rates. Cheers M

Oil is highly flamable if you heat it past it's flash off point - how do you think waste oil burners work? It's also a fucker to put out once going. Also as stan* says brake fluid, PAS, ATF/Gearbox oil etc. etc. can all end up in various unsavory places should the worst happen - PAS/ATF is...

Because if you have a fluid leak it holds this fluid against the now much hotter than usual manifold until it combusts. Whereas normaly you may get a bit of smoke a wrapped exhaust will hold sufficent spilt oil, for example, against the exhaust component to cause an engine bay fire, at which...

The difference between a factory fresh 172 and a factory fresh 182 is around 6bhp and 8ftlbs. This isn't enough to make any repeatable real world difference. If there is then there is something wrong with the 172. Cheers M

It is by the book. You can drop the subframe out and battle out that way if needs be... on a Cup car anyway, road car might have a few more bits in the way. Cheers M

I've got a cheap and heavy s**te thing from e-bay nailed to the turret. Catch tank is a simple little device. I've used Relentless and Stella cans in the past! Cheers M

Used to be used on the M12's to stop the battery melting, then it'd make an excellent wick for engine bay fires when the front bank turbo oil feed failed. On any production car from a large OEM you don't need it, sufficent work has been done on engine bay air movement etc to ensure high...

No point what so ever. It's good at causing engine bay fires and making up for piss poor design where radiated heat is causing local components to melt.... as such its a staple of the low volume sports car industry. You don't need it, you don't want it and it won't do anything useful. Cheers M

Main bearings are ally/tin as well so there won't be a lot floating about that'll stick to a magnet! Cheers M

You'd be amazed how much high temperature, low density exhaust gas will flow through a relatively small opening. Bigger isn't always better and the standard 4-1 manifold will flow sufficent for nigh on 400bhp in a forced inducted application and 260bhp naturaly aspirated. Cheers M

Sigh!! - the main reason why none of us have stuck a thread up purely relating to this project is exactly to avoid this situation. As soon as there is data which will be useful it will be posted here that day. That's the best I can say! To cover this again I will not post speculation or guesses...

4-1 172 manifold is absolutely fine and preferable if you're aim is the maximum possible power. The 182 manifold doesn't 'flow' any more or less than a 172 manifold. Cheers M

If you want a proper bag tank speak to Giles at ATL and tell him the BPM chaps sent you. Cheers M

Do you have the kit and the know how to make use of a 3 way adjustable setup? If not then there's no point having it as you'll either have it setup once and leave it or c**k it up trying to make it better. Nothing wrong with single way adjustables, or a fixed rate damper if they're correct...

Have a look how many high reving, high output engines (I4 or V8) use a 4-2-1 vs a 4-1. There's your answer! Cheers M

Mail me the PN. It's just a standard Bosch LS narrow band IIRC. Cheers M

And it's still going strong ;-) Fanks Fred! Always a curtain here for you mate LOL Ben, how close to Northants are you? I may have one..... Cheers M

Have this garage renewed the cambelt by any chance? Cheers M

Big thanks to Tony! A great day out had by all!! :-) Cheers M

I agree. Cheers M

AS = AutoSport. I.E. Deustch Autosport connectors. Used on aircraft, space ships, missiles and proper race cars ;-) Cheers M

An Omex 600, which'll run a F4R quite happily is 650quid'ish IIRC. Emerald and Omex are very, very similar in terms of accuracy, reliability and control. Emerald does have a big advantage in having basic CAN functionality IMHO. If you have 2 large to spend on an ECU then you're into...

If you're going to go to all that effort then do a proper job and stick a proper dash in it rather than using SPA gauges or similar. A good dash will provide data display and logging which will be extremely useful for a track car, for example you could plot and record oil pressure and...

I'd say it was worth investigating why you are having problems with the Siemens stuff first. It's pretty bomb proof and reliable - certainly more so than most aftermarket stuff will be in terms of resistance to back feed, reverse voltage etc. Changing ECU's for the sake of changing ECU's seems...

Nope doesn't need it. That bit of cable is only to life the reverse lockout colar. Cheers M

Yep its just a bolt on. Nab a 182, Meg 225 etc. etc. one and it won't have the breather on it. Cheers M