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I've only heard bad things about ploybushes tbh. Imo it would be much better to replace them with new standard items.

not had any work done by them, but I've never heard a bad word about them. The owner of angelworks is actually on the forum, incase you didn't know.

pretty straightforward tbh. You can re-use the driveshafts, gearbox,dogbone engine mount, gearbox engine mount and a few other things. I'm not sure about the drivers side engine mount, think it may be different on the RSi. Go and have a look over on retro-renault and do a search in the...

None on the net that I know of. Just get yourself a haynes manual - gives you enough detail to be able to do it yourself and if you have any questions about anything ask on here.

Personally I would never feel comfortable under a car on 4 axle stands. It might be perfectly OK but I never like to be under the car even just on two axle stands and I always have wheels under the sills etc just incase. I personally just jack the rear up pretty high when doing the exhaust...

If you want to use a jack on the engine the best way is to put a block of wood between the sump and the jack so that it will spread the weight across the sump. As has been said theres not really any need for a jack for this job, but thats the best way to do it if you want to jack the engine.

72,000 or 5 years. Though I would always change it a good bit before that tbh.

There are some for sale here: http://www.williamsclio.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18534 They would be the same as RSi brakes which could be upgraded to 16v with new carriers but they would be good enough for a 1.4 as they are anyway.

The brakes are probably fine as they are just s**t on an RT as standard. As sami says you could either try some performance pads, or get some 16v brakes put on there. 16v brakes should make a nice difference and shouldn't break the bank. You would need the discs, pads, calipers and carriers...

It's either leaking from a hose or your head gasket is fucked so you need to check for any leaks. Have a look all around the engine bay and underneath to try and see if there are any leaks, if you can't see any then I would start to worry about the headgakset. Do you get any white smoke coming...

All the colour of it means is that the coolant hasn't been changed in a good while, not that it's not got and anti-freeze. Give it a good flush through and it should come out fine.

I don't know about the cooling system on the Mk2's, but on Mk1 clios there is a sensor that goes in the side of the radiator and this controls when the fan comes on and off. I would imagine there will be something like this on yours and if you have tested that the fan works, and you know the...

Very good price

Elephant's monthly fees are rediculous. It work out at about 20% or more iirc extra if you pay monthly. As soon as you phone them to take the policy on the phone they add an extra 10%, then there is the interest they charge to be added on top of that.

Try asking over on retro-renault. Should get an answer over there fairly quickly. Doersn't sound too good though tbh - is it turning over at all?

Sounds like a potential bargain, a lot of people don't realise what a williams will sell for they just think of it as a 12 year old clio. For that reason I wouldn't necessarily say it's going to be a crap one as it's just as likely to be due to a lack of knowledge on the sellers part.

lol, just what I was about to say. I don't know if you realise it but Danny has one of the quickest hybrids around - about 180bhp without any engine work :eek: . I know all this as I wanted the car but that b*****d bought it ;). In general though it seems that 106 GTi's and a valver are...

When I bought some 54mm hubs from a scrappy they came of a 1.2 so they do exist - so I would definately advise checking. A lot of people seem to think the 1.2's only came with 52mm but that isn't the case.

don't go by what anyone says - check it. It could be either 52mm or 54mm.

lol, what kind of car have you got now?

more of a garage thing. Take the disc to a local garage and they should be able to do it for you pretty cheap and press in the new bearing as well.

For what they are I reckon they are quite good wee cars. I'm not saying they are quick my any means, but for a 1.4 8v they compare pretty well to others imo. I can't remember exactly what I was getting for 0-60 on my g-tech on a flat road but I think it was about 10.3 iirc. That, imo, is both...

I saw that on ebay but by the time I had sent the seller a message it had sold :( . Looks really nice mate.

yup, best way is to remove the hub yourself if you can and take it to a garage. Usually they will press the old one out and a new one in for a tenner, so only about £30 all in to replace the bearing as it shoudl only be about £20/25 for the bearing.

As sami said on all the Mk1's I've worked on, as far as I know the plug on the gearbox can be undone using the same bit as the engine sump plug, or using a 13mm (iirc) socket.

Do you mean the 1.4 energy engine? If so they are very reliable as long as you service it regularly, hear of ones still going stong at more than 200k miles.

lol, I was down there the other day and didn't even notice it as I was just at the parts department.

Re: Mk1 F1 conversion q's I'm not sure if the engine mounts from yours would fit or not, I belive they fit from the 1.2 energy engine, but with yours being a ph3 I would think it would be a diet engine and I don't know about them. As edde says though the valver ones will just bolt on though...

you can adjust the rear brake bias valve to alter the braking from the rear. Never had to do it though so will leave it for someone else to explain how, lol.

I think stan means to fit just the belt, without doing the tensioners etc. Stan does fit them and has a good reputation. Definately worth taking it to a specialist as otherwise it will cost loads to get done.